Restricted Access
Some good exciting routes from HVS to E5 but needing a bit of traffic to clean them up. North-facing sea cliff plus one route on the sea stack. Abseil descent.
There is a seasonal restriction for cliff nesting birds 1st March to 1st August and the area is also used by seals for pupping in the autumn - please minimise disturbance - do not climb near NE side of crag if seals in the cove immediately east of the crag.
Access is sensitive here so please keep a low profile.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing 1st March - 1st August inclusive. There is also a problem with general access at present as the landowner is not happy with climbing taking place on this cliff. Negotiations are ongoing. Please keep a low profile and do not place any fixed gear including stakes, pegs or slings.
1) 22m, 4c. From the non tidal ledge at the base of the abseil climb a crack system to the right of the blocky pinnacle.
2) 28m, 5b. Continue up the clean continuation crack above until blocky climbing leads the the top trending rightwards.
FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Quinton 21/Aug/2011.
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Rainbow Warriors
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Linney Head Area)