Restricted Access
The crags enjoy a fine aspect and North Buttress can provide a few hours of quality climbing. The routes are not long but there are a few excellent lines across the grades. In dry weather ledges and holds can become dusty and heathery topouts are an additional challenge.
Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.
There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.
Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Start from an embedded block, 2m right of Pugwash. Pull over the undercut onto the wall with difficulty then climb directly to the top. Enjoyable, but a Dangerous solo.
Alan Taylor, Tony Marr 29/Oct/2000.
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Route of Interest
Jams to the Slaughter
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Earl Seat)