20m. A2 and some V Diff. Reach the south face of the Monk's Cowl via the cave to the left of the needle's base on the north face. From there, scramble leftwards facing in, across a corner and down a little to a huge ledge that extends further leftwards covering about a third of the face. The ledge falls away at about a thirty degree angle to the south for three metres before steepening further. The huge overhang of the Monk's Cowl can be seen above. About halfway along the ledge is a thin crack that splits the cowl from top to bottom. This is the obvious line of Turold, good cam belays in the break beneath. Climb the crack vertically for three metres before striking out across the roof. The crack widens as the ground returns to the vertical and the crack is crossed by three breaks. From the furthest of these, awkwardly enter the squeeze chimney above and continue in this vein to just below the summit, where the crack ends and it is necessary to break out onto the slab and pad to the top. However, once reached there is nothing to belay from. The first ascent was rope soloed, so the ascensionist was able to abseil down the north face, anchor the rope to the bottom and return to the south face to clean via the fixed rope. For a party of two with good communication, it may be possible for the second to lower the leader down the north face before making their own ascent, and then in turn be lowered down the south face once they've reached the top. Peninnis Head

Mark Collins 12/Oct/2021.

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