UKC Logbook - '36 Years'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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30m. Takes a fairly direct route up to the lower off of Menin Road. Start at the bottom of the rock pile below a slim groove right of Menin Road. Climb easily but with care to the first bolt and continue up the groove to a foot ledge on the right arete. Make a long reach to jugs on the left arete and swing wildly round to reach a large sloping ledge. Wander up the ramps above and continue up the steeper ground to a hard rockover onto the final slab. Pad up to good holds and the lower off.

Nick Buckley Stephen lamb 27/Sep/2020.

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User	Date		Notes
goi.ashmore	3 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Take some long slings, there are some bolt placements that create drag (and a few that create a loading edge on normal length quickdraws).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Take some long slings, there are some bolt placements that create drag (and a few that create a loading edge on normal length quickdraws).
Ian Ford	20 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: You definitely want to keep left lowering off. I went straight down and the edge is really sharp.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: You definitely want to keep left lowering off. I went straight down and the edge is really sharp.
hbnick	1 Oct, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Be careful when stripping the first 3 bolts not to saw your rope along the edge of the groove as it is very sharp! Long draws and slings useful.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Be careful when stripping the first 3 bolts not to saw your rope along the edge of the groove as it is very sharp! Long draws and slings useful.