Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the full height of the wall. An alternative easier start is possible up routes to the left.
1) 6b, 38m. The left-hand line to a scoop (possible belay). Continue between the two tufas. A good pitch on its own.
2) 5b, 20m. Easy broken ground leads to another belay.
3) 6a, 20m. A slightly steeper section.
4) 6b+, 20m. A steep technical wall leads to the top belay.
Descent - You can continue up Albahida (via 3 bolts) or abseil back down the route with 3 long abseils. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route which can be done in one 30m pitch to the halfway lower-off but is better done in two to the high lower-off.
1) 4+, 15m. Either line of bolts to the scoop stance.
2) 6a+, 25m. Great climbing between 2 tufas. Ignore the halfway lower-off unless belaying from the ground 30m below. There are bolts above pitch 2 but not enough to make a pitch.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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matthewkm | 4 Mar |
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βeta: If you opt for just the first pitch in one go you won't make it back to the ground on a 70m rope; as we found out, the pitch is easily 40m+. Either belay from the first lower off at the top of the 4+, or just untie from the end of the rope during the descent and down climb the easy first few moves (up to around the 1st bolt). Additionally the lower off is very much in need of replacing... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If you opt for just the first pitch in one go you won't make it back to the ground on a 70m rope; as we found out, the pitch is easily 40m+. Either belay from the first lower off at the top of the 4+, or just untie from the end of the rope during the descent and down climb the easy first few moves (up to around the 1st bolt). Additionally the lower off is very much in need of replacing... |
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rk0900 | 13 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax pitch lengths are significantly wrong. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are all 35-40m rather than 20m each shown in Rockfax. TheCrag lists these pitches as 40m each and we ran out of rope mid pitch 3 with 35m to work with, despite Rockfax claiming a 20m pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax pitch lengths are significantly wrong. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are all 35-40m rather than 20m each shown in Rockfax. TheCrag lists these pitches as 40m each and we ran out of rope mid pitch 3 with 35m to work with, despite Rockfax claiming a 20m pitch. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Sa Gubia)