150m, 6 pitches.
A bit of an adventure! Meanders around the face of Toix Oeste to gain the summit. Mostly bolted, but sections of threaded tat and some pitches (especially 5 & 6) can feel quite run out. Route finding can be tricky at times. Can be done with a single rope (definitely a 70m, maybe less?).
Start is 4 routes to the left of Del Plas, heading up a ramp to the tree.
Pitch 1 (3+, 28m): Follow a ramp to belay by a tree
Pitch 2 (3+, ??m): Climb up a few bolts before traversing right
Pitch 3 (3+, ??m): Short pitch up and to the left, onto a chimney/dihedral
Pitch 4 (4, ??m): Easy scramble upward, following threaded tat. Belay on a comfy platform. Look for "TI" painted on the rock.
Short walk of 20m left to the bottom of pitch 5, bolt for belayer at the bottom.
Pitches 5 & 6 (4, ??m): Climb straight up, protection a mix of bolts and pitons. These are few & far between, you may want to add your own protection. Pass a single bolt on a platform (you may wish to belay here?) and continue upward passing an old stuck cam. Traverse right to reach multiple belays shared by e.g. Cilber. Final pitch is short but loose, reaching a platform below the summit.
After the last pitch you can scramble along the ridge, with the occasional bolt for protection.
Descent is similar to other nearby routes in the area: scramble until you reach a notch with a tree on top of it, then down to another tree - look for a big red arrow pointing down. Below this second tree is the belay at the top of Lofi. Rappel down from here.
Topos in Costa Blanca Climbs (2020) by Roberto López.
Start is 4 routes to the left of Del Plas, heading up a ramp to the tree.
Pitch 1 (3+, 28m): Follow a ramp to belay by a tree
Pitch 2 (3+, ??m): Climb up a few bolts before traversing right
Pitch 3 (3+, ??m): Short pitch up and to the left, onto a chimney/dihedral
Pitch 4 (4, ??m): Easy scramble upward, following threaded tat. Belay on a comfy platform. Look for "TI" painted on the rock.
Short walk of 20m left to the bottom of pitch 5, bolt for belayer at the bottom.
Pitches 5 & 6 (4, ??m): Climb straight up, protection a mix of bolts and pitons. These are few & far between, you may want to add your own protection. Pass a single bolt on a platform (you may wish to belay here?) and continue upward passing an old stuck cam. Traverse right to reach multiple belays shared by e.g. Cilber. Final pitch is short but loose, reaching a platform below the summit.
After the last pitch you can scramble along the ridge, with the occasional bolt for protection.
Descent is similar to other nearby routes in the area: scramble until you reach a notch with a tree on top of it, then down to another tree - look for a big red arrow pointing down. Below this second tree is the belay at the top of Lofi. Rappel down from here.
Topos in Costa Blanca Climbs (2020) by Roberto López.
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