30m.
A fun route on excellent rock with hard won gear for the crux.
Climb the (cleaned) slab as for Throwing Shapes to a good stance on some flakes/edges below the lefthand end of the overhangs. Step up (Purple Camalots) and follow a series of undercuts leftwards towards the arete of Spellack chimney (Medium Red Camalot high in a large undercut pocket and microcams). Place more (hard won) offset microcams in a thin crack high on the arete. Using the good lefthand pinch, reach for a poor gaston seam on the slab above. Crux moves on the arete lead to a stance on the small square slab - small blue camalot in the break above. Pull directly through the second overhang on small crimps to get stood on the final slab. Step up and left to gain the base of an excellent long flake and flow up this easily to the top.
Climb the (cleaned) slab as for Throwing Shapes to a good stance on some flakes/edges below the lefthand end of the overhangs. Step up (Purple Camalots) and follow a series of undercuts leftwards towards the arete of Spellack chimney (Medium Red Camalot high in a large undercut pocket and microcams). Place more (hard won) offset microcams in a thin crack high on the arete. Using the good lefthand pinch, reach for a poor gaston seam on the slab above. Crux moves on the arete lead to a stance on the small square slab - small blue camalot in the break above. Pull directly through the second overhang on small crimps to get stood on the final slab. Step up and left to gain the base of an excellent long flake and flow up this easily to the top.
Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 22/Mar/2021.
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Route of Interest
Part of the Friction
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Blue Lough Buttress)