The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.
The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.
Rockfax Description
From the flake climb to the break and an amazing ball-shaped hold. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JRex | 14 Dec, 2020 |
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βeta: Top out is horrificly unstable. Everything is a jug, but it is all very unstable. On the top out of the LH arete I pulled of a jug the size of a basketball without applying much force at all. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top out is horrificly unstable. Everything is a jug, but it is all very unstable. On the top out of the LH arete I pulled of a jug the size of a basketball without applying much force at all. |
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Grade: f6A+ ***
(Blacknor Beach)