UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Get established on the slab. Grade is for a jump start without stacked pads. f7B static off one pad. Sit-start is f7C. The full route is usually climbed above pads at highball f7B. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes.

Ticklists

The Black Circuit - Stanage , Peak boulders , All the boulders , The grit list , Local 7's (a/+'s)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Carlos Montero 27 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Why does this get a grade for a jump start? The static version is better and still 7A - not sure where this weird start or over grading came from
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why does this get a grade for a jump start? The static version is better and still 7A - not sure where this weird start or over grading came from

Logged Ascents

214 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 73 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slot Machine

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Nuda's Tartan)

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