Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The soaring chimney is usually avoided! The bell-shaped upper section is the crux. Good gear is available in the depths of the rift, though it is hard to place, especially with a helmet on! © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1933.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , In Peak Rock , Stanage Chimney Tour , UK road to wide crack mastery , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Stanage Plantation , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Stupid Rock , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , The Golden Age of Stanage Chimney’s , Stanage 3 star E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| George Frisby | 8 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta - face right (left arm in) and try not to reach for the break too early, just keep shuffling the legs up steadily. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Beta - face right (left arm in) and try not to reach for the break too early, just keep shuffling the legs up steadily. |
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| Martin Cooper | 3 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Try back and footing up the outside of the crack- it worked for me and wasn't too bad. If you get caught in the deep recesses.... heaven help you | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Try back and footing up the outside of the crack- it worked for me and wasn't too bad. If you get caught in the deep recesses.... heaven help you |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Intestate Direct Start
Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)