UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Jam through the roof of the cave. Traverse left to the end of Zippatrocity. Reverse this to the front left-hand arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Round the back of the Cowperstone, on its right, is a small cave. Enter from the back and jam through the roof (both hands and feet). Traverse left across slopers and more jams to join the end of Zippatrocity. Reverse this to finish at the front left-hand arĂȘte.

FA. Tom Randall.

Ticklists

UK Crack Boulders , Eastern Peak Jamming Crack and Mantel problems. , So you think you like crack climbing eh?

Feedback

User Date Notes
remus 22 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There was a bag of piss hanging in the starting crack. Says a lot about the quality of this problem that this probably improves the overall experience. Careful not to pop the piss bag!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There was a bag of piss hanging in the starting crack. Says a lot about the quality of this problem that this probably improves the overall experience. Careful not to pop the piss bag!

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Route of Interest
Weakest Link Direct

Grade: f7C ***
(Black Garden)

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