Walk clockwise along the footpath around the Mattmark reservoir from the dam to where the footpath splits and follow the left fork heading SSE up to Rotherd in the Ofental valley.
At spot height 2330m the footpath splits again, keep on upwards (L fork) for about 250m horizontal (~100m vertical) to where there is a set of double cairns. Turn left onto the minor, well cairned path traversing the slope and heading N (not marked on map). The path climbs gently then turns due East straight up the fall line through Wysstal to the bottom of the Nollengletscher at ~3000m. Great bivvy spots with water at ~2718m.
Head SE up the predominantly dry glacier with some obvious small crevasses and climb the last 50m to the summit on the rock ridge on the LHS, loose rock. Fantastic views of Monte Rosa, Strahlhorn, Rimpfischorn, Allalinhorn etc. ~1300m ascent from parking at the dam.
Description courtesy of abd69, September 2019.
At spot height 2330m the footpath splits again, keep on upwards (L fork) for about 250m horizontal (~100m vertical) to where there is a set of double cairns. Turn left onto the minor, well cairned path traversing the slope and heading N (not marked on map). The path climbs gently then turns due East straight up the fall line through Wysstal to the bottom of the Nollengletscher at ~3000m. Great bivvy spots with water at ~2718m.
Head SE up the predominantly dry glacier with some obvious small crevasses and climb the last 50m to the summit on the rock ridge on the LHS, loose rock. Fantastic views of Monte Rosa, Strahlhorn, Rimpfischorn, Allalinhorn etc. ~1300m ascent from parking at the dam.
Description courtesy of abd69, September 2019.
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Route of Interest
North Ridge
Grade: PD ***
(Bec d'Epicoune)