50m.
Below the finishing chimneys of The Division Bell is a steep left wall which gives the most demanding route
on the crag. The protection is not always obvious, particularly on the first arete where it is all from small
r.p.'s, though it was all placed on the lead. As most of the protection is fairly crucial, an abseil inspection is
strongly recommended.
Start beneath the overhanging arete 5m right of Charlie Don't Surf.
1. 50m 6b Climb the arete to a good jug which takes a F2. Move up and right onto the wall and gain the
obvious central line. Climb the short groove to good friends at the right end of a prominent shelf. Mere
mortals (and the first ascentionsist) may opt to hand traverse the shelf left for 2m where a very welcome
no-hands rest can be had. Return to the friends and continue up the short, sandy rib to a good finger-rail.
Climb the thin wall above, slightly leftwards, to a much better break, and much easier, though still very
steep, trending leftwards to a perfect crows nest belay ledge. (F21/2 & F3 belays in a hanging crack up on
the left wall). Escape easily rightwards.
Neil Foster, John Fleming 18/6/96
on the crag. The protection is not always obvious, particularly on the first arete where it is all from small
r.p.'s, though it was all placed on the lead. As most of the protection is fairly crucial, an abseil inspection is
strongly recommended.
Start beneath the overhanging arete 5m right of Charlie Don't Surf.
1. 50m 6b Climb the arete to a good jug which takes a F2. Move up and right onto the wall and gain the
obvious central line. Climb the short groove to good friends at the right end of a prominent shelf. Mere
mortals (and the first ascentionsist) may opt to hand traverse the shelf left for 2m where a very welcome
no-hands rest can be had. Return to the friends and continue up the short, sandy rib to a good finger-rail.
Climb the thin wall above, slightly leftwards, to a much better break, and much easier, though still very
steep, trending leftwards to a perfect crows nest belay ledge. (F21/2 & F3 belays in a hanging crack up on
the left wall). Escape easily rightwards.
Neil Foster, John Fleming 18/6/96
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