UKC

20m. A spooky, insecure and very bold route with no gear until 2/3rds height of the actual line but also without gear to prevent a fall to the base of the broken slab beneath. This line fills the gap between Day of the Beanpoles and Sense of Doubt. Start at a left hand slot/undercut at the base of Day of the Beanpoles. Once established on the wall insecure moves on tiny crimps lead rightwards to a side pull. Climb vertically on side pulls, dinks and smears to a left hand, shallow crimp and a desperate rightwards rockover to a sharp flake and the return of decent holds and the break at 2/3rds height (first gear). Easier climbing above.

James Dickinson 27/Aug/2023.

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