UKC

127m, 6 pitches.

Hong Kong Rock Description
127m. An inventive traverse line crossing some impressive vertical terrain starting from the base of the Central Slab and ending up on the edge of Big Wall. Unfortunately poorly equipped at present and the main crux pitch has loose rock. With suitable hardware and some judicious cleaning this would be an excellent outing, ideally with an alternate finish (above the belay at the end of pitch four) to maintain consistent grading.
1) 6b - 20m - 9 Bolts. Climb Learning to Fly Pitch 1.
2) 5a - 10m - 5 Bolts. Step down left off the belay ledge and traverse left across the wall to a double-bolt chain anchor. Abseil from the chain anchor to the base of the corner
3) 4a - 32m - 10 Bolts. Traverse along the obvious ramp to a shattered, V-groove at the end of the ramp. Climb the easy-angled slab to step down at the top to a ledge and bolt belay.
Attention: rope signals should be arranged for this pitch.
4) 4c - 15m - 5 Bolts. Step down from the belay and traverse easily along a ledge system to a bolt belay fitted with rappel rings. Abseil 18m down to a spacious ledge left of the abseil line (when facing the wall).
Warning: the edge of the ledge is sharp and will cut your rope if pulled across under load.
5) 6b+ - 40m - 16 Bolts. Climb up slightly left of the belay following a groove to a small footledge. Move up a blunt rib to ledge below a sharp fin. Climb up a groove to the right and very carefully traverse left using a detached flake to a welcome rest on the left in a run out position. Continue tracking left up into a chossy groove that is capped by a semi-dead bush. The bush partially impedes the necessary hard moves left across the wall to a ledge and optional belay (recommended). Continue up passing a few more bolts to exit rock proper and into the choss band. A short traverse left gains a double-bolt belay.
Warning: a serious lead with suspect rock and difficulties not always appropriately protected.
6) 5a - 10m - 1 Bolt. Traverse left over broken ground and undergrowth to reach the far belay and route end. © Hong Kong Rock

UKC Logbook Description
An inventive traverse line crossing some impressive vertical terrain starting from the base of the Central Slab and ending up on the edge of Big Wall. Unfortunately poorly equipped at present and the main crux pitch has loose rock.

P1: F6b
P2: F5
P3: F4
P4: F4+
P5: F6b+
P6: F5

Lau Hoon King 2019.

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Route of Interest
The End of the world

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Tung Lung Chau)

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