UKC

Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

24m. Abseil from trees at the top of the crag to the large belay ledge 24m down and belay from a tree. Climb upto the peg on Up the Neck and instead of heading to the arete, head left then straight up via bold, hard and crimpy moves to the top crack. Finish up this. Gear is available, but not easy to spot and isn’t bomber. Some friable rock may be encountered!

Col Kingshott, Cat Baines 30/Aug/2023.

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Route of Interest
Seven Cities

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Warton Main Quarry)

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