UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

14m. Worthwhile climbing between House of Magic and Bodger Bob to the lower off of Hoodoo Magic. Start 2m right of HoM. Climb the orange wall. Pinch/pocket/boss. Pull/stand/stay with difficluty onto the dark grey ledge (@4m crux). Tricky bolt clips/wires good in BB. Climb direct 11m on independent edges/crimps through HKG to the grey streak (down right of HM lower off and sidepull (half rest) at 11m ( bolts or wires throughout as side runners). Finish diagonally 3m to LO. May appeal to WQ afficionados of hybrid routes hereabouts. Probably E4/5

PT 20/Jul/2020.

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