UKC

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One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

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Last update: 18/03/2024  

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12m. Follow Nice and Dry to the first peg (good wire just below it). Move up and clip the second peg over to the the right; then reach a good layaway hold on the left and use this to move up and mantel onto the large ledge. Clip a third peg as a side-runner on the right; then (keeping well left of the peg) climb straight up the short wall and mantel onto a broad, vegetated ledge (possible belay). At the back of this is an easy 2m wall leading to the Upper Lift.

Alternatively (and less adventurously but more conveniently), finish as for Food For Worms: climb the corner and rib, move around left, and mantel onto a ledge (abseil station of Choppa on the left).

Brian Mullan (solo after abseil inspection) 18/Jan/2017.

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Wye Valley Sport Cover
Wye Valley Sport (2021)
Great Western Rock
By Gordon A Jenkin
Wye Valley Cover
Wye Valley (2007)
Climbers' Club
By John Willson
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Route of Interest
Sinew's final groove
Sinew

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wynd Cliff)

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