UKC

1200m. A cunning line up the north face of Germany's highest peak. Expect: sketchy limestone mixed, loose rock, deep snow. Do not expect: much gear, an easy retreat, straightforward routefinding. Difficulties up to M5+. A reasonable topo and description is available here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/eisklettern/himmel-und-hoelle-zugspitze-nordwand/.

(Note I have guessed the approximate alpine grade---it seems dangerously misleading to categorise this as a 'mixed climb', it's 1200m long and covers very serious alpine terrain with no in-situ gear. The grade suggested assumes descent via Höllental or Stopselzieher; maybe it would be closer to TD+ if the lift was running. Feels quite comparable to the Eugster Direct on the Aiguille du Midi).

Matthias Robl and Marcel Rossbach 13/May/2006.

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