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Chalkie at top of crack
© mike lawrence?, Jul 2014

'Extreme Rock' ticklist

contributed by UKC Logbooks Sep/10
This public ticklist has been seen 12,490 times

This list of beautiful climbs is admired even by the very best. Whether gracing old gnarlers' coffee-tables in the form of a mighty tome, lying as ragged paper printouts in young aspirants bookshelves, or in this electronic format illuminating your computer screen; this mighty collection cannot fail to inspire.

From the Outer Hebrides to Land's End via Gneiss, Gabbro, Lavas, Schists, Granite, Limestone, Slate, Dolerite, Quartzite, Culm and, of course, Grit; this assortment of routes revels in the variation of British rock climbing. High mountain crags and tidal sea cliffs, traditional and sport, 10m outcrops and 300m buttresses, bustling quarries and serene isolation; this list will take you through it all.

No one individual has climbed all of these routes. Some of the climbs have almost mythical statures and success on just one would, for many, be a career defining goal. Success on all would require not just great skill but a keen taste for adventure. Any completer would deserve great respect indeed. But who will claim the ultimate prize? To complete the whole lot without even one fall, totally free, completely onsight.

This list is taken from the book Extreme Rock (1987) edited by Ken Wilson & Bernard Newman.

Notes:

  • Megaton and Thor - No longer climbable: These were destroyed by rockfall many years ago.
  • Controlled Burning - Suffered a rockfall in 2004 but it still climbable (albeit very carefully). There's more more rockfall expected at some point so probably best to stay off this one.
  • The Giant - No longer climbable: The top pitch has collapsed in 2006.
  • Return of the Natives - No longer climbable: After a rockfall sometime after 2011, it now lies in the sea.
  • Cougar - No longer climbable: A major rockfall removed the third pitch of this classic in August 2012.

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AddClimb nameGradeTicks?HeightCrag name
1Stairway to HeavenE5 6a ***7?Bla Bheinn
2ThorE2 # -240m• 5Sgurr a'Mhadaidh
3MegatonE1 # -250mSgurr a'Mhadaidh
4SuperchargerE2 5c **20?Neist
5Grey PantherE1 5b ***16745mKilt Rock, Staffin
6InternationaleE2 5b **2545mKilt Rock, Staffin
7Titan's WallE3 5c ***26?Ben Nevis
8King KongE2 5c ***20?Ben Nevis
9CaligulaE3 5c **4110m• 4Ben Nevis
10AgrippaE5 6b ***4?Ben Nevis
11The FuhrerE4 5c **43?Creag Dubh,...
12AcapulcoE4 6a ***22?Creag Dubh,...
13EdgehogE3 6a ***88?Steall Meadows...
14Going for GoldE4 6a ***215mSteall Meadows...
15Just a Little TeaseE5 6b ***925mWhale Rock, Glen...
16UnicornE1 5a ***77?Stob Coire nan...
17ScansorE2 5b **10?Stob Coire nan...
18KingpinE3 6a ***11?Bidean nam Bian
19Freak OutE4 6a ***55?Aonach Dubh, East...
20SpacewalkE5 6b **2050m• 2Aonach Dubh, East...
21The ClearancesE4 6a ***15?Aonach Dubh, North...
22The Pinch DirectE3 5c ***27?Beinn Trilleachan...
23The Risk BusinessE5 6a ***17120m• 4Creag A'Bhancair
24Romantic RealityE7 6b ***1?Creag A'Bhancair
25Steeple (Summer)E2 5c ***100250mShelterstone Crag
26HaystackE3 5c ***29?Shelterstone Crag
27The PinE2 5b ***2470m• 2Shelterstone Crag
28The SpireE4 6a **8160mShelterstone Crag
29The Run of the ArrowE6 6b ***390mShelterstone Crag
30The GiantE3 6a **11?Creag an Dubh Loch
31CougarE3 5c ***34?Creag an Dubh Loch
32The Naked ApeE5 6b ***6?Creag an Dubh Loch
33FloddenE6 6b ***-?Creag an Dubh Loch
34Chemin de FerE5 6a ***14?Dumbarton Rock
35Club CrackE2 5b *34?The Cobbler, North...
36Wild CountryE6 6b ***-50mThe Cobbler, North...
37Rat RaceE4 6a, 5b ***77?• 2Dunkeld, Cave Crag
38The Big LickE3 5c ***5180m• 6Creag Dubh Dibadale
39StoneE5 6a ***5185m• 7Sron Ulladale...
40Grand AllianceE4 6a ***113?Black Crag...
41Bitter OasisE4 5c ***90?Goat Crags,...
42Footless CrowE5 6c ***15?Goat Crags,...
43The Gates of DeleriumE4 6a ***30?• 2Raven Crag,...
44The Lord of the RingsE2 5c ***19340m• 14Scafell East...
45SaxonE2 5c ***106?Scafell Crag
46The NazgulE3 5c **39?Scafell Crag
47Lost HorizonsE4 6b ***24?Scafell East...
48Shere KhanE5 6a ***22?Scafell East...
49EquusE2 5c ***100?Gimmer Crag
50Eastern HammerE3 6a ***75?Gimmer Crag
51Fine TimeE5 6b *16?Raven Crag...
52R 'n' S SpecialE5 6a **24?Raven Crag...
53TrilogyE5 6a ***5931mRaven Crag...
54Cruel SisterE3 5c ***116?• 3Pavey Ark
55Fallen AngelE4 6a ***37?Pavey Ark
56Side WalkE2 5b ***70?Dow Crag
57The CumbrianE5 6b ***3980m• 4Esk Buttress (Dow...
58HolocaustE4 6a ***58?Dow Crag
59The MoonE3 5c ***248?Gogarth South Stack
60Winking CrackE3 5c ***101?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
61The StrandE2 5b ***534?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
62DinosaurE5 6a ***34?Gogarth North Stack...
63MammothE5 6b ***988m• 3Gogarth North Stack...
64CitadelE5 6b ***55?• 2Gogarth North Stack...
65HungerE5 6a ***33?Gogarth North Stack...
66PositronE5 6a ***9262m• 3Gogarth North Stack...
67T.RexE3 5c ***95?Gogarth North Stack...
68The CadE6 6a ***52?Gogarth North Stack...
69The Bells! The Bells!E7 6b ***4?Gogarth North Stack...
70Capital PunishmentE3 5c ***84?Idwal Slabs (aka...
71Suicide Wall Route 1E2 5c ***160?Idwal Slabs (aka...
72Comes the DervishE3 5c ***65540mVivian Quarry
73The SkullE4 6a ***73?Cyrn Las
74LubyankaE3 5c ***112?Cyrn Las
75The BoldestE4 5c ***60?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
76West Buttress EliminateE3 5c ***67?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
77Great WallE4 6a ***20872m• 2Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
78A Midsummer Night's DreamE6 6a ***22?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
79SpreadeagleE4 5c *2?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
80Master's WallE7 6b *-?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
81Womb BitsE5 6b ***15?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
82The Indian FaceE9 6c ***7?Clogwyn Du'r Arddu...
83The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***14?Pen Trwyn
84New DimensionsE4 6a ***5037m• 2Castell y Gwynt
85Great WallE4 5c ***39?Craig y Forwyn
86Left WallE2 5c ***77438mDinas Cromlech
87ResurrectionE4 6a ***258?Dinas Cromlech
88Right WallE5 6a ***191?Dinas Cromlech
89Lord of the FliesE6 6a ***55?Dinas Cromlech
90VulcanE4 6a ***104?Craig Pant Ifan...
91FingerlickerE4 5c ***78?Craig Pant Ifan...
92Silly AreteE3 5c ***228?Craig Pant Ifan...
93ZukatorE4 6a **51?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
94VoidE4 6a ***146?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
95CreamE4 6a ***180?• 4Craig Bwlch y Moch...
96StrawberriesE7 6b **5?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
97Western FrontE3 5c ***19113mAlmscliff
98The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***12318mAlmscliff
99The Big GreenyE3 6a ***12314mAlmscliff
100Wellington CrackE4 5c ***6716mIlkley (Cow and...
101Milky WayE6 6b ***10?Ilkley (Cow and...
102Face RouteE3 6a ***9547m• 2Gordale Scar
103Jenny WrenE5 6a **2060m• 4Gordale Scar
104DeliveranceE5 6b ***1734m• 2Gordale Scar
105Cave Route RightE6 6b ***3732mGordale Scar
106Cave Route Left (pre-2012 trad version)E6 6c ***1632mGordale Scar
107Pierrepoint7c+ ***3540mGordale Scar
108Main Overhang7c+ **2817mMalham Cove
109Free and Easy7c **3220mMalham Cove
110New Dawn7c ***9622mMalham Cove
111Central WallE4 6a ***82?Kilnsey
112Deja VuE5 6b ***73?Kilnsey
113Dominatrix7c ***110?Kilnsey
114High NoonE4 6a ***38?Caley Crags
115Adrenaline RushE5 6b ***3410mCaley Crags
116Kingdom ComeE5 6b *1015mStoney Middleton
117CirceE5 6b *3022mStoney Middleton
118BitterfingersE4 6a ***13120mStoney Middleton
119Wee DorisE4 5c ***177?Stoney Middleton
120Our FatherE4 6b **8515mStoney Middleton
121Beau GesteE7 6c ***-14mFroggatt Edge
122Hairless HeartE5 5c ***8615mFroggatt Edge
123StrapadictomyE5 6b ***1559mFroggatt Edge
124London WallE5 6a ***8322mMillstone Edge
125White WallE5 6b **6222mMillstone Edge
126Green DeathE5 5c ***3318mMillstone Edge
127Edge LaneE5 5c ***9118mMillstone Edge
128Great AreteE5 5c ***616mMillstone Edge
129Master's EdgeE7 6c ***1918mMillstone Edge
130DariusE2 5c ***32150mHigh Tor
131BastilleE6 6b ***1637mHigh Tor
132CastellanE5 6b ***1242m• 2High Tor
133Profit of DoomE5 6b ***4118mCurbar Edge
134LindenE6 6b ***2518mCurbar Edge
135Right EliminateE3 5c ***7118mCurbar Edge
136QuietusE2 5c ***25514mStanage High Neb
137Old FriendsE4 5c ***10218mStanage High Neb
138Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***69?• 2Chee Dale Lower
139Easter IslandE1 5b **18628mDovedale
140Adjudicator WallE3 5c ***12040mDovedale
141The Prow (classic)7c ***3250m• 3Raven Tor (Miller's...
142Revelations8b ***1115mRaven Tor (Miller's...
143Fern HillE2 5c ***32012mCratcliffe Tor
144Five Finger ExerciseE2 5c ***30322mCratcliffe Tor
145RequiemE3 6a ***4626m• 2Cratcliffe Tor
146Star GateE3 5c ***111?Mother Carey's...
147Mythical MonsterE2 5c **10050m• 2Huntsman's Leap
148Quiet WatersE3 6b **87?Huntsman's Leap
149Witch HuntE4 6b ***5445m• 2Huntsman's Leap
150Surprise AttackE1 5c ***10955m• 2Mewsford
151DaydreamsE1 5b ***8755m• 3Mewsford
152Return of the NativesE3 5b, 6a **13?Mewsford
153The PreterE2 5b **61?Avon Gorge (Main...
154Krapp's Last TapeE3 5b ***81?Avon Gorge (Main...
155Think PinkE3 6a **73?Avon Gorge (Main...
156DreadnoughtE3 5c ***6580m• 3Berry Head (The Old...
157CavemanE6 6b ***12125m• 6Berry Head (The Old...
158Tudor RoseE2 5b ***91?Guillemot Ledge
159OceanidE2 5b **3950m• 2Guillemot Ledge
160WarlordE4 6a ***3545m• 2Guillemot Ledge
161VikingsE4 6a **1650m• 3Guillemot Ledge
162Heart of the SunE2 5b **69?Baggy Point
163The Promised LandE3 6a ***17?Lundy
164Wolfman JackE3 5c ***69?• 2Lundy
165Controlled BurningE4 5c **36?Lundy
166A Widespread Ocean of FearE5 6a ***22?Lundy
167Il DuceE5 6b ***27?Tintagel Head
168EroicaE4 6a ***119?Pentire Point
169Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***70?Pentire Point
170AmericaE4 5c ***22?Carn Gowla
171GuernicaE6 6b ***3?Carn Gowla
172MastodonE3 5c ***36?Gurnard's Head
173BehemothE2 5c ***29?Gurnard's Head
174Astral StrollE1 5b ***128?• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
175Raven WallE3 5c **86?Bosigran
176KafoozalemE3 6a ***122?Bosigran
177The GhostE3 5b ***106?Bosigran
178Deja VuE4 6a **25?Great Zawn
179The West FaceE5 6b ***19?Great Zawn
180Dream LiberatorE3 6a ***65?Great Zawn
672 e, 493 stars13,1964,235m• 265