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Fay and Break on Through, Lower Sharpnose, Devon
© Dan Arkle

'Trad climbs for sport climbers' ticklist

contributed by Stone Muppet Jan/12
This public ticklist has been seen 4,500 times

Copied from the thread on some other famous forums. Supposed criteria: 1. Bomber gear not too spaced 2. Three stars - if you are only going to do a couple of trad routes they've got to be good ones 3. Gently overhanging in a way that is easily manageable if you have sport climbing fitness and safer for falling off 4. Not crack climbs. I have removed any suggestions that got questioned on the thread. And I might have made mistakes. Use at your own risk!

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AddClimb nameGradeTicks?HeightCrag name
1Mammoth DirectE6 6b **12?Gogarth North Stack...
2Run Fast, Run FreeE5 6a **35?Gogarth North Stack...
3Ocean BoulevardE3 5b ***13245mBoulder Ruckle
4Mother AfricaE4 6a ***3645mBoulder Ruckle
5Wall of the WorldsE5 6a ***4345mBoulder Ruckle
6Break On ThroughE4 6a ***12420mLower Sharpnose...
7FayE4 5c ***12030mLower Sharpnose...
8PacemakerE5 6a ***7530mLower Sharpnose...
9Flaky WallE4 6a ***12235mHigh Tor
10Mad MaxE6 6c **9?High Tor
11Get Some InE5 6a ***84?St. Govan's Head
12Yellow PearlsE5 6b ***41?Trevallen Cliff
13Right WallE5 6a ***162?Dinas Cromlech
14ResurrectionE4 6a ***226?Dinas Cromlech
15TrilogyE5 6a ***5531mRaven Crag...
16Penal ServitudeE5 6b ***55?Reecastle Crag
17Bat Out of HellE5 6a ***4712mHiggar Tor
18InaccessibleE5 6a ***8?Ina's Rock
19Just KlingonE5 6a ***16?Mother Carey's...
20The SlothHVS 5a ***91624mRoaches Upper Tier
21Eye of the TigerE6 6c ***526mIlam Rock (Dovedale)
22Witch HuntE4 6b ***4845m• 2Huntsman's Leap
23BalasE5 6b ***3322mKilnsey
24Central WallE4 6a ***74?Kilnsey
25Left WallE5 6a **6915mBrimham Rocks
26Last Tango in ParisE1 5b **49845mVivian Quarry
27Queer StreetE3 6a ***73?Chee Dale Lower
28Splintered PerspexE3 6a **61?Chee Dale Lower
29Mortlock's AreteE4 6a ***57?• 2Chee Dale Lower
30ApocalypseE4 6a ***41?• 2Chee Dale Lower
31Doubting ThomasE5 6b ***2923mMalham Cove
32The Golden MileE5 6b ***14?Chee Dale Lower
33Head HunterE5 6a **73?Huntsman's Leap
34The Fascist and MeE4 6a ***6540m• 2Trevallen Cliff
35John WayneE5 6a **38?St. Govan's Head
36Rimsky KorsakovE5 6a ***6025mCraig Cwm Glas Bach
37HolocaustE4 6a ***54?Dow Crag
38GenocideE4 6b *3?Dow Crag
39GuillotineE3 5c ***140?Reecastle Crag
40ThumbscrewE3 5c ***103?Reecastle Crag
41White NoiseE3 5c ***140?Reecastle Crag
42Bloody SundayE4 6a ***226?Huntsman's Leap
43SinecureE1 5b **35120mCarreg-y-Barcud
44WraithE5 6b *5125mLower Sharpnose...
45Luke SkywalkerE5 6b ***1036mBosherston Head
46London WallE5 6a ***7722mMillstone Edge
47SupersonicE5 6a ***8735mHigh Tor
48FoilE3 6a **206?Dinas Cromlech
49PulsarHVS 5a 2?Craig y Castell...
50DemetreusE3 6a **43?Idwal Slabs (aka...
51The Mau MauE4 6a ***15622mRainbow Walls
52Electric BlueE4 5c **74?Rhoscolyn
53CentrefoldE3 5c **78?Rhoscolyn
54Energy CrisisE5 6a ***32?Gogarth North Stack...
55The CruiseE5 6b **18?Gogarth North Stack...
56The Lean MachineE5 6a ***2735mBoulder Ruckle
57BehemothE5 6b ***1632mCentral Buttress...
58Arms RaceE4 5c ***142?Avon Gorge (Sea...
59ThemE3 6a ***98?Avon Gorge (Sea...
60MirageE3 6a *107?Avon Gorge (Sea...
61Central WallE4 6a **24?Avon Gorge (Main...
62Main Wall EliminateE4 6a **2830mAvon Gorge (Main...
63Wicked GravityE5 6b ***7?St. Govan's Head
64Tangerine DreamE4 6a ***106?St. Govan's Head
65Perfect DayE5 6b ***1822mGardoms Edge
66OffspringE5 6b **1510mBurbage South...
67HyperspaceE5 6a ***450m• 3Mother Carey's...
68VultureE4 6a **52?Craig Bwlch y Moch...
69Black GrubE3 5b ***8928mBeeston Tor...
70KillerkrankyE5 6b ***5230mEsgair Maen Gwyn...
71Snakebite WallE4 6a *3737mHolyhead Mountain
72A Step in the Light GreenE6 6b ***15?Heptonstall
73Stuffed BadgerE5 6b **415mChee Dale Upper
74Nettle WineE4 6b **1312mCratcliffe Tor
75Lip of FoolsE7 6c **1?Eastwood Rocks
76Pretty Girls Make GravesE6 6b ***8?Craig Cwm Glas Bach
77Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***20?Pen Trwyn
78Lost IllusionsE5 6b **25?Avon Gorge (Sea...
79Low ProfileE5 6b ***32?Avon Gorge (Sea...
80Think PinkE3 6a **68?Avon Gorge (Main...
81Rustic WallE3 5c **3325mSplit Rock (Milton...
82Red Rag to a BullE5 6b *3025mSplit Rock (Milton...
83Brazen HussyE5 6a 927mSplit Rock (Milton...
84Tricky DickyE5 6a **1825mSplit Rock (Milton...
85King of KingsE6 6b ***520mAnglezarke Quarry
86Septic Think TankE5 6b *418mAnglezarke Quarry
87Please Lock Me AwayE5 6b **1518mAnglezarke Quarry
88The Karma MechanicE6 6c **316mAnglezarke Quarry
89Constable's OverhangE5 6b **1114mWilton 3
386 e, 221 stars6,5431,207m• 95