UK Winter Conditions

This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are. All the winter climbs done by users in their UKC climbing logbooks over the past 5 days are shown - click on the route name to find details of all the recent ascents, the map shows the locations of the crags where routes are being done.

There is also a summary of the 'condition' threads on the Winter Forum, including those by the UKC Area Correspondents. At the base of the page are winter photos taken over the same period.

Recent Winter climbs

Lochnagar Aberdeenshire

Raeburn's Gully (II) on Tue 27th
Slab Gully (III) on Tue 27th 2 ascents
Shadow Buttress A, Original Route (IV 5) on Mon 26th 2 ascents
Cathedral Chimney (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Magic Pillar (IV 5) on Sat 24th

Eagle Rocks Aberdeenshire

The Drool (V 5) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Carn an Tuirc - Coire Kander Aberdeenshire

And Victor (IV 4) on Tue 27th

Creag Meagaidh Highland

Staghorn Gully (III) on Mon 26th

Buachaille Etive Mor Highland

Curved Ridge (II/III 3) on Sat 24th

Stob Coire nan Lochan Highland

NC Gully (I/II) on Tue 27th
Boomerang Gully (Left exit) (II) on Tue 27th
Dorsal Arete (II) on Sat 24th

Bidean nam Bian Highland

Crypt Route (winter) (V 6) on Tue 27th

Aonach Eagach - Sgor nam Fiannaidh Highland

Aonach Eagach Ridge (winter) (II) on Sat 24th

Aonach Mor Highland

Western Rib (III) on Thu 29th

Liathach Highland

Poacher's Fall (V 5) on Sat 24th

Beinn a'Chaorainn Highland

East Ridge (II) on Mon 26th

Beinn Bhan Highland

Great Overhanging Gully (VI 7) on Mon 26th
Godzilla (IX 8) on Sat 24th

Fuar Tholl Highland

Enigma (Winter) (VII 7) on Sat 24th

Meall Gorm Highland

Turquoise Gully (III) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Forcan Ridge Highland

Forcan Ridge (Winter) (II) on Sat 24th

Ben Nevis Highland

Vanishing Gully (V 5) on Wed 28th
Tower Ridge (IV 3) on Tue 27th
The Great Chimney (IV 5) on Tue 27th
Shield Direct (VII 7) on Mon 26th
Tower Scoop (III) on Mon 26th
Ledge Route (II) on Mon 26th
South-West Ridge (IV 5) on Sun 25th
The Curtain (IV 5) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Gemini (VI 6) on Sat 24th
Waterfall Gully (IV 4) on Sat 24th 4 ascents
Harrison's Climb Direct (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Point Five Gully (V 5) on Sat 24th
Fawlty Towers (III) on Sat 24th
Compression Crack (V 5) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Cutlass (VI 7) on Sat 24th
South-West Ridge (IV 5) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Carn Mor Dearg Arete (I) on Sat 24th
Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall (V 5) on Sat 24th 3 ascents

Coire an t'Sneachda Invernesshire

The Runnel (II) on Thu 29th
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II) on Thu 29th
Jacob's Ladder (I) on Wed 28th
Crotched Gully (II) on Wed 28th
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4) on Tue 27th 4 ascents
The Runnel (II) on Tue 27th
Spiral Gully (II) on Tue 27th
Fluted Buttress Direct (IV 4) on Tue 27th 2 ascents
Red Gully (II) on Tue 27th
The Stirling Bomber (V 7) on Tue 27th 2 ascents
Wavelength (III 4) on Tue 27th
No Blue Skies (VI 7) on Mon 26th 2 ascents
Doctor's Choice (IV 4) on Mon 26th 2 ascents
The Runnel (II) on Mon 26th 3 ascents
The Slant (I) on Mon 26th
Hidden Chimney Direct (IV 5) on Mon 26th 3 ascents
Aladdin's Mirror (I) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4) on Sun 25th
The Runnel (II) on Sun 25th
Hidden Chimney Direct (IV 5) on Sun 25th
The Message (IV 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Jacob's Ladder (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Aladdin's Couloir (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
The Lamp (V 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Aladdin's Mirror Direct (IV 4) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Spiral Gully (II) on Sat 24th
Fiacaill Couloir (II/III) on Sat 24th
The Seam (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Fiacaill Ridge (I/II) on Sat 24th
Central Left Hand (I/II) on Sat 24th
The Slant (I) on Sat 24th
The Haston Line (III 4) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Hidden Chimney Direct (IV 5) on Sat 24th
Opening Break (IV 5) on Sat 24th
Damnation (VI 6) on Sat 24th
The Magic Crack (VII 7) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm) Invernesshire

The Vagrant (VII 7) on Tue 27th

Lurcher's Crag Invernesshire

Central Gully (III) on Sat 24th

Coire Fee, Glen Clova Angus

Look C Gully (IV 4) on Sat 24th

Winter Corrie, Driesh Angus

Diagonal Gully (III) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Corrie Farchal Angus

Silver Threads among the Gold (IV 5) on Sat 24th

Canness Glen Angus

Where Eagles Dare (V 5) on Sat 24th

Ben Lomond Stirlingshire

Central gullies left hand (II) on Sat 24th
Central gullies middle (II/III 3) on Sat 24th
Central gullies right hand (III 3) on Sat 24th

Aonach Dubh, West Face Argyll and Bute

Dinnertime Buttress (I/II) on Mon 26th
No.3 Gully (II/III) on Sat 24th

The Cobbler Argyll and Bute

Great Gully (II) on Mon 26th
Chockstone Gully (II) on Mon 26th
Chockstone Gully (II) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Creag Coire an Dothaidh Argyll and Bute

Salamander Gully (III 4) on Sat 24th 3 ascents

Beinn Dorain Argyll and Bute

The Promised Land (VI 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Beinn Udlaidh Argyll and Bute

Sunshine Gully (III) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Quartzvein Scoop (IV 4) on Sat 24th 4 ascents
The Croc (V 5) on Sat 24th
Peter Pan Direct (V 5) on Sat 24th
Land of Make Believe (II) on Sat 24th
Doctor's Dilemma (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Ice Crew (III) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

White Goods Clwyd

The Finnish Start (M10) on Tue 27th
Cenotaph (unknown) ? (M4) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Don't Tumble (M6+) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Left Over Goods (M9) on Sat 24th
Tumble in the Jungle (M9) on Sat 24th
White Goods (M8+) on Sat 24th

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) Gwynedd

The Ice-fall (III 4,3) on Sat 24th

Glyder Fach Gwynedd

Bristly Ridge (II 2/3) on Sat 24th

Clogwyn y Garnedd Gwynedd

Left-hand Trinity (I/II 2) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Central Trinity (I/II 2) on Sat 24th 7 ascents
Right-hand Trinity (III) on Sat 24th
Gwyn ein Byd (V 5) on Sat 24th

Crib Goch Gwynedd

Crib Y Ddysgl - Crib Goch Traverse (Winter) (I) on Sat 24th 6 ascents
Detox (VII 7) on Sat 24th
Wright Route (IV 4) on Sat 24th

Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder Gwynedd

Cleft Gully (V 6) on Thu 29th
Pillar Chimney Original (V 5) on Sun 25th
Cleft Gully (V 6) on Sun 25th
Clogwyn Left Hand Branch (V 5) on Sat 24th
Pillar Chimney Variations (IV 5) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Clogwyn Du Right Hand Branch (III 3/4) on Sat 24th 9 ascents
Pillar Chimney Original (V 5) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Cleft Gully (V 6) on Sat 24th
Clogwyn Du Far Right Hand (IV 4) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Cwm Cneifion Gwynedd

Easy Route (I) on Thu 29th
Tower Slabs (II/III) on Sun 25th
Hidden Gully (II) on Sat 24th 10 ascents
Tower Gully (I/II) on Sat 24th 4 ascents
Tower Slabs (II/III) on Sat 24th 7 ascents
Easy Route (I) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
The Gribin Ridge (II) on Sat 24th 5 ascents
Corner Gully (I/II) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Hidden Gully Right Hand (II/III) on Sat 24th 4 ascents

Craig Dafydd Gwynedd

The Wayward Prong (IV 4/5) on Sat 24th

Y Gribin Gwynedd

Y Gribin (Winter) (II) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Clogwyn Mannod Conwy

Slate o' the Art (M5+) on Sun 25th 4 ascents
The Cloak (M6+) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Unveiled (M7) on Sun 25th

North Buttress/Cambridge Crag Cumbria

Rib And Groove (V 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Dow Crag Cumbria

Easy Gully (II) on Sat 24th
North Gully (III 4) on Sat 24th

St. Sunday crag Cumbria

Pinnacle Ridge (winter) (II) on Sat 24th

Scrubby Crag Cumbria

Juniper Groove (V 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Gable Crag Cumbria

Central Gully (III) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Scafell Crag Cumbria

Great Western (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Deep Gill Integrale (III 3) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
West Wall Traverse (I) on Sat 24th
Lords Rake (I) on Sat 24th

Brown Cove Crags Cumbria

Central Gully (I/II) on Mon 26th
Two Grooves (IV 6) on Mon 26th 2 ascents
Grace and Favour (III) on Mon 26th
Right Parallel Gully (I) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Central Gully (I/II) on Sat 24th 4 ascents
Stepped Ridge (III) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Left Buttress (II) on Sat 24th
Left Branch (II) on Sat 24th
Two Grooves (IV 6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Left Parallel Gully (I) on Sat 24th
Summer step (II) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Stepped Ridge - Corner Finish (III) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Chimney and Crack (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Broad gully right of main crag (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Central Gully Chimney Finish (II/III) on Sat 24th

Tarn Crag (Grisedale) Cumbria

Tarn Crag Gully 1 (I/II) on Sat 24th
Tarn Crag Gully 2 (I) on Sat 24th
Dollywagon Gully (III) on Sat 24th

Red Screes crag Cumbria

Kilnshaw chimney (I/II) on Sat 24th

Great End (Sprinkling Tarn) Cumbria

Cust's Gully (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Window Gully (II/III) on Sat 24th 3 ascents
Central Gully Right Branch (II) on Sat 24th
Central Gully Left Branch (III) on Sat 24th
South East Gully (III) on Sat 24th

Dollywagon South Cumbria

Dollywaggon Gully (III) on Sat 24th

The Tongue Cumbria

Tongue Gully (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Jogebar Crag Cumbria

Jogebar Gully (III 4) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Jogebar Chimney (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Nethermost Pike East Ridge (I) on Sat 24th
Terrace Ice (III) on Sat 24th

Low Water Crag & Low Water Beck Cumbria

Summit Route (II) on Sat 24th 2 ascents

Chapel Crags Cumbria

Turf's Up (IV 4) on Sat 24th
Right Frog (IV 5) on Sat 24th

Blencathra (aka Saddleback) Cumbria

Sharp Edge (Winter) (I/II) on Sat 24th
Hallsfell Ridge (Winter) (I) on Sat 24th

Helvellyn - Red Tarn Cove Cumbria

Gully 1 (II) on Sat 24th
Gully 2 (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Striding Edge (I) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Swirral Edge (I) on Sat 24th
Gully 3 (III) on Sat 24th

Rampsgill Head Crag Cumbria

Central Gully (III 4) on Sat 24th
North Gully (IV 5) on Sat 24th

Striding Edge Cumbria

Striding Edge (WINTER) (I) on Sat 24th

The Works Cumbria

Time and a Half (M5) on Sun 25th
Double Time (M6) on Sun 25th
Overtime (M6) on Sun 25th
Time and a Half (M5) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Double Time (M6) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
First Blood (M9+) on Sat 24th 2 ascents
Guardian of the Underworld (M12) on Sat 24th

Masson Lees Quarry Derbyshire

The Warm-Up (M6) on Wed 28th
The Tenuous Link (M7) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Sub Rosa (M10) on Sun 25th
Substantial Losses (M10) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Substantial Gains (M11) on Sun 25th

Saltdean East Sussex

Back Up (M4) on Sun 25th
Back Off Back On (M4) on Sun 25th 2 ascents
Back in Time (M4) on Sun 25th
Unnamed Route (M4) on Sun 25th 2 ascents)

Winter CLIMBING + (Jan 2009)

Winter CLIMBING + Winter Climbing+ is the third in the critically acclaimed series of instructional books from Rockfax. Written by two of the UKs most respected winter climbers, Winter...
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*  Condition Reports

Winter Climbing forum reports by mountain guides and UKC users:

Marrakech, JBEL TOUBKAL

"Trekking guides in the high atlas mountains in Morocco. we organise treks to Mt Toubkal which is the highest peak in North Africa, as well as trips to the desert. we run also other..."
toubkal-trekking.com

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