UKC

Jorg Verhoeven climbs The wheel of life direct, ~8C

© Jon Glassberg(?)

Jorg Verhoeven on The wheel of life, ~8C, HMC, Grampians, Australia  © Jon Glassberg(?)
Jorg Verhoeven on The wheel of life, ~8C, HMC, Grampians, Australia
© Jon Glassberg(?)
Jorg Verhoeven has repeated James Kassay's The Wheel of Life Direct (V15) variation of Dai Koyamada's 60+ move roof climb The wheel of life, ~8C, in the Hollow mountain cave in the Grampians, Australia. 

Dai was the first to succeed in linking all the problems necessary to climb the whole length of the cave in 2004. He suggested 8C+ could be appropriate. Since then ten climbers (or so) have repeated the feat, some with knee pads and some without, and everything from 8B+ to 9a+ has been suggested.

Three years ago, James Kassay added a direct finish by topping out via Amniotic World, ~7C, at the highest part of the cave. As far as I know, this is the first repeat of this climb. It's been speculated this one could be 8C+...or 9a+ for that matter.

Another contender for the most difficult boulder/route in the cave is Alex Megos' Wheelchair, ~9a+, which still awaits its second ascent.

Any takers? Jorg?

Here is what Jorg said:

After working the 60+ moves into perfection I gave it one good go a day and ended up on top on day 5. I took the full experience topping out at the highest point and thus adding a little spice to the end. I can't agree to a route grade, since it doesn't gain much height, nor needs rope or draws, and comparing it to other (only slightly) similar boulders it seems 8C would be fitting. Don't get me wrong, but similar to freeclimbing the Nose, I almost feel a little sad it's over...

 

Jorg Verhoeven is sponsored by: La Sportiva, Marmot and Petzl


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