UKC

The Big Issue (E9 6c) for McHaffie and Pasquill

© Mike Hutton

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have made quick ascents of The Big Issue (E9 6c) (E9 6c) at Bosherston Head, Pembroke. They both had an onsight attempt at the route the previous week, only to be thrown off by the technical crux. However, both returned the following weekend and completed the climb.

Ryan Pasquill approaching the technical crux on The Big Issue  © Mike Hutton
Ryan Pasquill approaching the technical crux on The Big Issue
© Mike Hutton

James McHaffie strung out on the stunning wall  © Mike Hutton
James McHaffie strung out on the stunning wall
© Mike Hutton
After falling from an onsight attempt, James tied off the old peg and did the crux and then lowered down, thinking they would both climb it on their next attempt. Unfortunately, they were scuppered by hot weather and also hadn't anticipated that the upper section of the route would be the lead crux. Their final day was thrown off course by a heavy night and bad weather…

Both James and Ryan returned the following week. They warmed up on Pleasure Dome (E3 5c) and Mutiny on the Bounty (E6 6a) before setting their sights on the main objective. Caff told UKC:

'I wanted to do it first go putting the kit in but lobbed off the techy mid crux.

Ryan, Maddy (Cope) and Emma (Twyford) had a burn and I did it next go, having left the kit in the first half. Ryan had a great effort, having gotten close on his 2nd go, he got through it when the rock went quite gop really near the end of the day.

'The route's got an amazing finishing headwall with a cutloose move that both me and Ry nearly dropped. Emma and Maddy looked strong as sin on it…'

The route was originally climbed by John Dunne in 1996. John used the peg and some stuck wires, but placed most of the gear on lead. The name refers to the debolting of the line, at a time when bolts were being used on certain first ascents in Pembroke. Below is the film featuring John Dunne on The Big Issue.


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Ryan Pasquill is perhaps one of the best all-round climbers in the UK, and is known for his understated style, completing many climbs on-site or ground up. His impressive tick list includes Sleepy Hollow (E10, 7a), Gerty...

Ryan's Athlete Page 16 posts 2 videos




15 Aug, 2017
Awesome, what a duo, heavy night....
15 Aug, 2017
An old favourite! Juts noticed the brush at 27:41.......I say!
15 Aug, 2017
Obviously not having a go at Caff, but the blurb at the top of the article is incorrect when it says they "completed the climb ground up". Caff is quite clear that he didn't do it ground up in his description. Not clear how Ryan climbed it but probably in a similar style to James? It doesn't really matter how they did it, but if the route hasn't yet had a ground up ascent (has it? or did those strong foreigners do it G/U?) then it's not helpful to state here that it has been done GU. Someone might still want that prize of doing the first GU ascent.
15 Aug, 2017
Maybe I'm being thick here Will but where does he say that?
15 Aug, 2017
The opening post on this thread: But the ground up bit doesn't appear in the article.
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