The 2019 British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships took place at the Beacon Climbing Centre in Caernarfon, Wales, last weekend.
Held over two days, the event began early on Saturday morning with qualifications for all categories. Some big names including former champions were missing from the competition - Shauna Coxsey, William Bosi, Molly Thompson-Smith and Jim Pope - but the standard of climbing nonetheless remained high.
In the senior event, 16-year-old Emily Phillips and Billy Ridal both achieved double wins in Speed and Lead, marking the end of a successful summer for both GB team athletes. Although typically achieving higher placings in Boulder and making multiple semi-finals in the IFSC Boulder World Cup this year, Emily recently placed 3rd in Combined in the World Youth Championships in Arco, finishing 4th in the Youth A Lead final. 'Another unexpected success in lead!' she wrote on Instagram after her BLCC win. Jo Neame and Hannah Slaney were close behind and separated by time after reaching the same point on the final route. Having previously held the British women's Speed record before Shauna Coxsey brought her time down, Emily is also one to watch in Speed. She took the win ahead of Emma Davidson and Jen Wood, her fastest time being 10.65 seconds in the qualifiers.
Billy Ridal arrived fresh from a 4th place finish in the European Championships (Boulder) in Zakopane earlier this month. Billy topped both routes in qualifiers and reached the same score as Hamish McArthur - who recently placed 2nd in Boulder at the World Youth Championships - but Billy took 1st place after countback to the qualifying round. Alex Waterhouse finished 3rd falling just short of their highpoint. In the Speed event, Billy and Alex battled it out once again, with Billy just having the edge over Alex in the final and recording a fastest time of 7.31 seconds in the qualifying round. Sam Butterworth completed the podium in 3rd. Not content with winning both Speed and Lead, Billy drove to Llanberis Pass after the competition and made quick ascents of Diesel Power 8A, Pools of Bethesda 8A+ and Mr Fantastic 8A.
Competitors praised the route setting team on social media for creative and dynamic routes across the event, set by Yann Genoux, Andy Long, Max Ayrton, Gavin Symonds and Emma Twyford.
Lead Podiums
Youth C
Male Female
1. Dylan Soin 1. Lily Kinnersley
2. Rhys Conlon 2. Ava Gracey Hamilton
3. Kai Main 3. Izzy Bridgens
Youth B
Male Female
1. Jack MacDougall 1. Erin Mcneice
2. Alfie Duckworth 2. Hannah Kerr
3. Finn Hayward 3. Willow Petrobelli
Youth A
Male Female
1. Finley Wood 1. Megan Wyatt
2. Dylan Akhtar 2. Hannah Williams
3. Stephen Keir 3. Lauren Barnett
Seniors
Male Female
1. Billy Ridal 1. Emily Phillips
2. Hamish McArthur 2. Jo Neame
3. Alex Waterhouse 3. Hannah Slaney
Speed Podiums
Juniors
Female Male
1. Saveena Fillingham 1. Matthew Fall
2. Lauren Barnett 2. Pierre Shankland
3. Hannah Kerr 3. Louis Langlands
Seniors
Female Male
1. Emily Phillips 1. Billy Ridal
2. Emma Davidson 2. Alex Waterhouse
3. Jen Wood 3. Samuel Butterworth
Comments
Thanks for the report. We have some skilled climbers coming through!
Any plans for one about the European Youth Boulder championship from the weekend?
Jason
Yes, waiting on comment and photos from our medallists.
I had to look really carefully to check that this wasn't just the youth championships.
Is everyone burnt out by the time they're 17 :-)
I was there on the Sunday and I had to check a couple of times to make sure it was the Senior comp (as well as the Youth) because, as you say, no-one was over 18! Guess the `older' ones are involved in the World Cup etc. Mind you, what youths. When the youngest competitors walked out I half-wondered if they could reach the holds. Not a problem. I was particularly impressed by Jack MacDougall.
I think Dave Barrans over 18 😀