UKC

The Ticklist: #54 Hard grades from around the world

© Nathan Phillips

This week's Ticklist has an eclectic mix of hard grades from around the world...

Off the Wagon (Font 8B+) for Nathan Phillips

British boulderer Nathan Phillips has climbed Nalle Hukkataival's Off the Wagon (8B+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. It took Nathan four sessions to do the first move - a huge leap off poor footholds - and then five to link the rest of the problem. 

This was Nathan's sixth Font 8B+, five of which have been on the Swiss granite, the other was Gecko Assis in Fontainebleau.

Jakob Schubert cleans up at Siurana

After climbing La Capella (9b) and King Capella (9b/+) in recent weeks, Jakob Schubert has now ticked off Furia de Jabali (9b) and flashed Jungle Speed, which he suggests in 8c+ but many others believe to be 9a.

Jakob has also released the uncut footage of him climbing La Capella and King Capella, both of which he climbed on the same day:

New route at Curbar for Jim Pope

Sheffield-based Jim Pope has climbed a new route on the Smiling Buttress block at Curbar, naming it Frowned Upon and grading it E8 6c, although perhaps his estimation of Font 7C/+ (albeit a very highball one) difficulty is more useful to aspirant ascensionists. 

Jim's new line: Frowned Upon  © Rockfax
Jim's new line: Frowned Upon
© Rockfax

Font 8B for Allison Vest

Canadian climber Allison Vest has climbed her fifth 8B  with an ascent of Army of the Dead in Joe's Valley, Utah. Commenting on her 8a.nu account, she said:

'Yay! Stoked to put this one together. I really liked the moves on Ghost of War so I was psyched to start trying the link-up. A little harder maybe if you have to add moves to get into the stand instead of doing the big span. Such cool moves.'

Paul Robinson returns to form

American climber Paul Robinson has climbed Dicktopia (Font 8C) at Camp Dick, Colorado. This comes after he had disc replacement surgery back in January. After his ascent, he wrote:

'Well I did it! I climbed a damn hard boulder post double disc replacement and peroneal tendon reconstructive surgery. Dicktopia, V15/8C! I am super proud of myself for pushing through and not letting the injuries hold me back from accomplishing my goals and dreams.'

Shawn Raboutou flashes Spectre (Font 8B)

American boulderer Shawn Raboutou has flashed Dave Graham's iconic problem Spectre in Bishop, California. As far as we know, this is the second flash of the problem after Brian Nugent's back in 2019. Watch the video of Shawn below:


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