Matilda Söderlund has made the first repeat, and first female ascent of Niemisis, near Niemisel, Sweden.

The route was first climbed by Söderlund's Swedish compatriot Hannes Puman in 2020, after which he did not offer a grade. Söderlund, who has previously climbed The Elder Statesman (XI) (9a), as well as Rayu 8c multipitch, has proposed the grade of 9a.

Söderlund spent forty-seven days working the route in total, making it her 'longest project ever'. She kicked off the process with thirty-five days in 2021, before heading back for a quick two day stint earlier in the summer, and eventually climbing it on the tenth day of her most recent trip. 

Sharing news of the ascent on instagram, Söderlund said:

'Feels surreal to close the chapter on this one. I started working on the route spring of 2021. I was in a great shape and after my first trip I thought I would come back and send it quickly - that was not the case'.

'The route is unique in the sense that it's extremely sustained, the crux consists of nineteen hard, crimpy, and technical moves in a row with no rest. I fell more than twenty times going to the same hold (crux move sixteen). Big up to Kristoffer Lindbäck for the vision, and Hannes Puman for the FA!'

'Regarding the grade. Hannes didn't grade the route. Comparing it to other routes and the feeling I had when I climbed it, it's the hardest route that I've done. It's also the route I've spent the most time / attempts on (also taking into account that the route was wet for a substantial period of time in 2021)'.

'I also used the 'Darth Grader' and came to the same conclusion as my own "feeling" of difficulty of the climb. Therefore I propose 9a. Would love for more climbers to come try this gem'.

Söderlund - in conjunction with Lindbäck and Puman - also took the opportunity to rename the route. Upon making the first ascent, Puman chose to give the route the misleading title 'Nybörjare 7b', which translates to 'Beginner 7b'. The three of them agreed to change the route name to Lindbäck's original suggestion - 'Niemisis'.