UKC

New 8C for Solly Kemball Dorey

© Ruby Perch

Solly Kemball Dorey has made the first ascent of Poseidon's Wrath (f8C), at  Trewethet Cliff (North) in Cornwall.

Poseidon's Wraith, Solly's third boulder at 8C - and his first FA at the grade - is a board-style boulder, requiring pure finger-strength and body tension through tiny holds. The boulder took Solly twenty-eight sessions to complete across two years, and he has described it as 'the hardest and best' boulder he's ever done.

We got in touch with Solly to find out more about the boulder, how he came across it, and what it means to have climbed his hardest boulder yet.


Congratulations on climbing Poseidon's Wraith! Tell us about the boulder, how you first came across it, and what it was that got you hooked on it?

My mate Lee Bartrop found the board at one of his epic trad climbing locations (Trewethet), thought there might be something on it, and told me about it last year.

He took me down with a couple of mates to look at what, at first glance, is a completely blank wall, but some marginal holds are dotted here and there. Poseidon's Wraith was the first line that caught my attention, just because of the logical start and the way it goes straight up through what looked like barely possible moves at the time.

I think what got me hooked was that it's got the whole package: a great location twenty mins from the house with wave cut platforms to chill on, as well as the aesthetics and just pure difficulty.

What's the inspiration behind the name?

Well the name is a funny one. Poseidon was being a real pain when I was trying to get this bloc done, soaking the boulder via a blow hole which ended up getting me, my pads, and my mates wet multiple times.

He also stole three of my pads that I had stashed, so it was meant to be called 'Poseidon's Wrath' meaning the rage he was unleashing on me for trying to best him, but I misspelled it.. but I think taking on his 'ghost' is just as fitting of a challenge.

&copy Ruby Petch  © Ruby Petch
© Ruby Petch

Talk us through the climbing - where does the difficulty lie, and what are the hardest things to get right?

It's about as basic as it comes, no heel hooks or toe hooks, just finger strength, shoulders, and a lot of tension.

The most challenging part in terms of the climbing is linking any of the moves together, as each move is hard enough as it is, with each of the first four moves being between 8A+ and 7C individually.

The first move was the most difficult, and I could go and only be able to do it a couple of times in a session before either my shoulder or skin would give out.

Were there any big breakthrough moments?

I think the biggest break through was at the end of last year where I managed to link the first three moves. As soon as I had done that I knew it was possible, and it was a matter of time and conditions.

Did you have to do any specific training for the boulder?

When it comes to training I have a rigorous approach.

That is, do whatever Dave Mason tells me to do.

You spent almost thirty sessions on the boulder in total (with many more curbed by poor weather or conditions) is this the longest you've spent on a project? What was it about this Poseidon's Wraith that gave you the motivation to keep on coming back?

It's definitely the longest I've spent on a bloc but I think the location and just how sick it is meant that I'd happily go down there and wait hours for it to dry, or just chill down there if it didn't dry up.

Tell us about the approach, and the location, we've heard that getting there is a challenge in and of itself...

I think in terms of most approaches down here it isn't that bad, but it's definitely a slog on the way back up. I knew I would be down there a lot so I opted to stash some pads, which even after losing three I don't regret.

When you're down there you are surrounded by rock and water. There are cliffs, and little islands in the water, with unique rock formations, interesting colours, and a sea that changes temper way too quickly. The setting can change every time you go down based on how the ocean is acting.

Solly climbs Poseidon's Wraith, 8C, at Trewethet Cliff  © Ruby Petch
Solly climbs Poseidon's Wraith, 8C, at Trewethet Cliff
© Ruby Petch

Conditions for this boulder sound more elusive than normal, why is it such a challenge to find the boulder in a climbable state?

There are just so many factors for coastal bouldering. As all the good quality rock is below the tide line it will be getting hit by the sea everyday. This bloc also seeps as it has a massive cliff above it, with drainage lines straight through this boulder, and most of the time it condenses over night.

To get it dry you need no rain for a few days, swells to be low enough that it won't hit the wall via the blow hole, and wind in the right direction with enough speed to dry it up, as the sun won't get into some of the holds as it's too steep.

You described this boulder as the 'hardest and best' boulder you've done, as your 'magnum opus', your finest work. What does it mean to you to have finally climbed Poseidon's Wraith?

This is a tricky question to answer as I don't really know what it means. Ultimately, it's a stupid arbitrary sport, but for some reason it gets me stoked!


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5 Sep, 2023

Excellent !

6 Sep, 2023

The appearance of the rock really adds a level to it!

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