Florian Wientjes has made the second ascent of Ryuichi Murai's Floatin, 8C+, in Mizugaki Japan.

The boulder consists of just five hard moves, of which two are big campus moves, before an easy top out.

It was first climbed by Murai in 2021, and was his third boulder at 8C+. Wientjes' ascent is his second at the grade, as well as his second this year, having repeated the well-known boulder problem Off the Wagon SDS (V16) in February.

As well as having climbed a further four boulders at 8C, Wientjes is one of just eight people to have flashed an 8B+ boulder, climbing Amandla (V14) on his very first attempt last August.

'I've fulfilled a big dream of mine with this ascent', Wientjes shared on Instagram, 'since Ryuichi Murai tried the so called "Launch Pad Project" back in the day, I was immediately hooked by the art of pure power bouldering. Five hard moves on a blank 35° shield of granite'.

'The problem consists of two powerful cruxes. Crux one is the first move, a huge deadpoint move from a bad pinch (left hand) and a tiny incut crimp (right hand) into a three finger pocket'.

'For me, initiating the move with a pogo felt more approachable than Ryuichi's campus. I needed a lot of attempts to understand the move and sacraficed a lot of skin in the process of [learning] how to grab the holds properly'. 

'Crux two is a downwards campus move to a small crimp which requires a lot of contact strength to hold on'.

'In total I needed five sessions to stand on top of this gem and I invested a lot into specific training for it the last three months before the trip'.

'Now I feel so relieved, so happy that all the effort that I put into the whole process has helped make this dream come true. It's paid off. This chapter is now closed'.

Check out the video below to see Murai's first ascent of the boulder: