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Century Crack, 5.14b, for Fumiya NakamuraNewsflash

© Fumiya Nakamura

Fumiya Nakamura has made a rare ascent of the Wide Boyz' classic route, Century Crack, 5.14b, in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

The route, which was the feature ascent of the film Wide Boyz, follows an offwidth crack for more than 120 feet. In the twelve years since Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall made their ascents of the route, this is just the second repeat.

Nakamura, who made his first 5.11a (~E4) trad ascent just three years ago, climbed the route on his second redpoint attempt. He took just under an hour and a half to complete the route, using shoes that he had 'inherited' from third ascensionist Danny Parker. 

'It took about 83mins to climb this monster crack', Nakamura said on Instagram, 'This requires a variety of techniques, not just wide pony. So much fun to climb this one'.

'I stacked my foot multiple times and it took so long. I couldn't even hold big jug but I finally did it!!! After I sent, I shouted for joy with all my might from my parched throat'.

'Thank you to everyone who supported me both in Japan and America ... I want to keep shedding my skin like a shrimp forever. This weekend made me realize that once again'.

Fellow crack climber Yuya Kitahira, who released a film about his own efforts on Century Crack earlier this year, released a video congratulating Nakamura, and describing him as proficient 'not only physically but also mentally, and, of course, technically... In every aspect, it's apparent that he consistently puts in the effort. The quality and quantity of his training are incredibly substantial'.

Both climbers are due to return to Canyonlands together next year, where Nakamura will support Kitahira in his bid to become the fifth ascensionist of the route.


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