Basque Power...8c+ on gear

by Mick Ryan Aug/2006
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+Iker Pou redpointing the boltless first pitch of Lurgorri, 88 kb
Boltless 8c+
There must be something in the water, or the heritage (or both!), that produces so many good climbers in the northern region of Spain: Josune Bereciartu, Edurne Pasabán, Alex Txikon, Alberto Iñurrategi, Jon Beloki, all Basque, it just goes on and on. Perhaps two of the most well known rock climbers from that region are the brothers Iker and Eneko Pou who have upped the anti with a new route on the beautifully weathered limestone monolith of El Picu Urriello (aka Naranjo de Bulnes - Picos de Europa - Spain)

Lurgorri is 250 metres, six pitches long, and is equipped in minimilistic style, the crux first pitch is 8c+ and has no bolts. Where there are bolts, like the 5th pitch, they are a long way apart... 8 bolts in 55m!

The Basque brothers did the route intially on aid early in the summer and then began working it free succeeding on a continuous ascent last week with Iker leading the crux first pitch. Goodness help the second ascensionists if they do it onsight.


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