A climb like Realisation but over the waterby Mick Ryan Sep/2006
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Like many Chris Sharma caught the deep water soloing bug after watching Klem Lostkot double-dynoing on the sea cliffs of Mallorca in the Big Up Production film, Psibloc. Sharma asked Mallorcan deep-water soloing pioneer Miguel Riera, "What's the craziest, most perfect line you've seen on the island, that seems it might be impossible, but it might just go?"
Chris Sharma on The Arch, Es Pontas, Mallorca
Riera directed Sharma to the rocky island arch of Es Pontas. Five month-long trips and over 80 attempts later Sharma has succeeded in what he describes as a similar experience, for him, as climbing his Realisation (Fr9a+) at Ceuse in France. This new climb involves technical and strenuous climbing on the underside of an arch and includes a 7ft dyno. If you want to see the actual footage of Sharma on the route, cruise on over to the Big Up website, click on "Extras".
The Arch teaser is available for download either as a 32.9Mb or 5.9Mb file. Also worthwhile is an interview with Sharma about this route where he describes how success comes from non-attachment and getting rid of the nuerosis that comes from trying something 80 times and wanting it really bad. He compares the mental and physical experience of climbing the Arch with one experienced whilst doing Realisation his hard climb at Ceuse.
The full episode of this climb will be included in a new film
project Josh Lowell and Big Up Production are working on for next year called King Lines. You can read an interview with Josh Lowell at UKClimbing.com (here)