Breaking news down the forums, courtesy of Alasdair Fulton, reports that down North Wales (the happening place) Dave Macleod has been very busy indeed with a thorough look at (and opinion on) Johnny Dawes's masterpiece Indian Face, which he decided not to lead, and making the third ascent of the non-slabby E9, Trauma, first climbed by Leo Houlding (who is on Everest today) and that was recently repeated by James Pearson.
Dave's take on Indian Face:
" The climbing wasn't very technical, just standing up on many very small toe edges for 100 feet. You can take both your hands off on any move on the whole thing, but it's still super thin on the toes. My feet hurt! Foot cramp was putting me off at first, but then later when I thought about leading the route, I realised that the only thing that would make me fall off would be the snappy nature of the some of the footholds or one of my feet randomly skidding. Both were relatively likely and although the RP protection was not nearly as bad as I had read, there is still the possibility to die in a fall from the end of the hard part. So I sacked it and went in search of something more motivating to climb."
UKC news did hear that Dave had bagged Indian Face and was trying Trauma when we were down there Thursday, it was hot!
You can read more of Dave's thoughts on Indian Face and Trauma at davemacleod.blogspot.com
And of course additional perspective including lots of photographs from those be everywhere chaps at Hot Aches at hotaches.blogspot.com
Word on the street in Llanberis tonight was that Pete Robins and James McHaffie were both near to repeating Trauma.