Rescue on Muztagh, But Kozjek Still Missing

by Jack Geldard, Erik Lambert and Nazir Sabir Alpinist Sep/2008
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+Muztagh Tower, 137 kb
Dejan Miskovic, the Slovenian climber trapped on Muztagh Tower (7284m), Karakoram, Pakistan, has been rescued by Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj. Miskovic had been stranded on the peak with few supplies after his partner, Pavle Kozjek, fell through a cornice (read the original report on the Alpinist Website). Miskovic is in Skardu, healthy.

British climber Gaz Parry reported bumping in to Tomaz Humar on his way to Trango Tower:

"We have just landed in Islamabad. We hear it is snowing in base camp. We hear this because we met Tomaz Humar on the plane. He is on a rescue mission to rescue 3 Slovenian climbers from Muztagh Tower. The lost team is also like us a Millet expedition project; one person is presumed dead, one unsure and one descends. We may go to help as we have a doctor with us. We have so much respect for what Tomaz is doing, he has not slept for two days and is flying straight to base camp."

Miskovic was stuck at the altitude of 6300m with no food, sleeping bag nor rope. However, he slowly continued to crawl down the mountain to 5300m, where he was stranded above a very treacherous and heavily crevassed glacier for two days. Luckily he was in phone contact with friends in Slovenia, who initiated a rescue.

Early on the morning of August 28, there was a break in the weather, and Humar and Kozelj, assisted by the K7 team that had been in communication with Miskovic, flew a rescue mission from Skardu to Muztagh Tower in army helicopters led by Col. Nawazish and his team. They retrieved Miskovic at 5300 meters, then searched for Kozjek. Efforts to locate Kozjek remain unsuccessful.

Read the full report by Erik Lambert on the Alpinist Website

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