Hans and Yuji Break The Nose Record AGAIN: 2:37:05by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com Oct/2008
This news story has been read 26,718 times
Jesse McGahey, Yosemite Climbing Ranger, broke the news yesterday at Supertopo.com
"There were about 200 people out in the meadow to watch this lap on El Cap's Fast Track, and the boys didn't let us down! From high flying 360s and cartwheels to 80 foot run outs on 5.10 cracks, Hans and Yuji were on their game! "
Big Wall Climber and El Cap Watcher Tom Evans has posted an illustrated report of Florine and Hirayama's record-breaking attempt at Supertopo.com, click -- El Cap Report 10/12/08. (Thanks Tom)
The normal time to climb the Nose is 3 days although it is frequently climbed in a day by well-prepared and fit climbers. The first ascent of the Nose was achieved by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore on November 12th, 1958. It took 45 days work on the route over 18 months. The final push took 11 days. The first one day ascent was by Jim Bridwell, John Long and Billy Westbay in 1975. It took them about 17 hours and 40 minutes.
Filmed by Japanese and American television crews, yesterdays ascent was even more remarkable as Yuji Hirayama had earlier in the week taken a 20 metre fall and had a badly swollen ankle. Last Wednesday the pair climbed the Nose in 2:48:23.
Florine and Hirayama simul-climb with Hirayama always in the lead. Florine devised this method as the most efficient, but it risky, Hirayama faces a 100ft plus whipper if he falls.
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more