Gritstone in Good Styleby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jan/2009
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We have heard that man of the moment Ryan Pasquill has flashed the precarious smear-fest of Gaia (E8 6c) at Black Rocks. Ryan recently made the first ascent of the long standing Ilkley project (UKC News). Ryan has now flashed three Gritstone routes graded E8, these being Countdown to Disaster (E8 6b) in the Rocky Valley, Ilkley, End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar and now Gaia.
Reported on UKBouldering a few weeks ago and now featured in this month's Climb magazine is another superb Gritstone effort. James Pearson has onsighted End of the Affair (E8 6c). Commenting in the magazine, James said "...avoiding gaining any beta was almost more difficult than the actual climbing".
Pete Robins has just had what has been coined "Big Friday". Climbing ground-up, his ticklist for the day started with a warm-up on Renegade Master (Guidebook grade of E8 6c - however general consensus is now highball Font 7C/+) at Froggatt. Pete slipped off the very top on an early attempt, taking the full height fall and landing on the ground, missing his bouldering mats. He climbed it next go. (Photo)
He then highballed a new route/problem, now named Big Friday to the left of Lithuania at Curbar, at Font 7C (Photo). Pete then realised a long held ambition by flashing End of the Affair and warmed down by climbing Slingshot (Font 8A) on his first go of the day. He had tried the problem a few weeks previously.