World Sport Climbing Round-Upby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC May/2009
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Marcus Bock on Pantera (F9a)
© Manfred Eichhorn
F9a Repeats and First Ascents:
Marcus Bock has climbed a F9a first ascent in the Frankenjura. Pantera took him five days of effort. More info on Climbing.de
Ramon Julian Puigblanque has repeated El Gran Bellanco, F9a, at Montanejos, Spain.
Joe Kinder has climbed a new link-up now named The Re-Up. He estimates it to be around F9a. The link is on The Cathedral in Southern Utah and is a link between the existing routes Unforgivable and Slaughterhouse 5.
You can see a topo of the wall on Climbingnarc.com
Watch a video of Joe Kinder talking about his project:
F8c+ by 14 year old boys:
French juniors Enzo Oddo and Geoffray De Flaugergues have both recently climbed F8c+.
Enzo ticked Victimes del Futur at Margalef, Spain. This is his 3rd F8c+ route.
Geoffray succeeded on Home Sweet Home, F8c+ at Pierrot Beach, France. This was his 5th route at F8c+ or harder.
F8c aged 51:
Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla has repeated Thin Ice (F8c) at Terlago in Italy. The route was first freed by Nico Favresse. Commenting on Planet Mountain after his ascent, Manolo said:
"That line, the one in the middle, really was beautiful and I failed to resist... I didn't even wait for the sun to set and I was already there, the single moves didn't even seem that difficult."