MacLeod - Stunning New Torridon E8by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jun/2009
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Dave MacLeod high on his new E8 Kolus, Torridon
© Claire MacLeod / Velvet Antlers Dave MacLeod has yet again nabbed a stunning and hard first ascent, this time with a perfect sandstone arete now named Kolus (E8 6c).
The route tackles the beautiful arete left of The Torridonian, a classic E3 corner line, and finishes in a similar position as Thunderbird, another classic E3. (Thunderbird hand traverses leftwards along the upper break in the photo above - where Dave has a cam by his foot).
Commenting on his blog, Dave said:
"Torridonian sandstone is one of the finest rock types I've ever seen. It's very similar to Gritstone and, sometimes, Northumbrian sandstone."
If it was on grit, the arete left of The Torridonian on Seana Mheallan would be one of the hailed true grit classics. But it's in Torridon, so it's sat there quietly, just being perfect on it's own, with hardly any climbers knowing about it.
Dave heard about the route from Scottish climbing legend Dave Cuthbertson, who had attempted the line without success.
MacLeod top-roped the route prior to his lead and snapped a pebble foot hold on his final top-rope run.
"Thank god it wasn't on the lead" he commented.
Thanks go to Claire MacLeod for the use of this photograph.