Bellunesi Dolomites, Italy
© Dolomiti Turismo Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla, also known as 'The Magician' due to his exceptional slab technique, has extended his own existing route O ce l'hai... o ne hai bisogno (F8b/+) at the beautiful limestone venue of Baule, Bellunesi Dolomites, Italy.
He has named his 27 metre crimp-fest Eternit and proposed a grade of hard F9a.
The legendary 51 year old Italian climber stated that "Eternit is undoubtedly more demanding than all the others I've climbed in this style, from Bain de Sang to Thin Ice, Appigli ridicole and Bimbaluna."
In an account of the route on PlanetMountain, Manalo describes his ascent:
"I clipped the rope, reached out on nothing and everything seemed to capsize once again. I couldn't take it any more, I wanted to slip and alleviate the pain from my arms, from my head. I delegated all the responsibility to my feet, my shoes, the rubber. I didn't want anything to do with it anymore, slip, just let them slip. But there was still a spark of anger left within me, I loaded and sprung up, far away to the edge of those 11 minutes, 38 seconds and 60 moves of my life. Exactly 19 years after having thought it was impossible..."
Full story and photos on PlanetMountain