It used be the case that E8's in North Wales could go for years without being repeated. But Stevie Haston's recent tour de force, Bam Bam on the Lleyn Peninsula, has now seen two onsight repeats within three weeks of being established.
Purposefully taking full advantage of the route's chalked-up condition after Stevie's ascent and Jack Geldard's swift repeat, James McHaffie was 'steady away' to the top of Craig Dorys with no drama. Reaching a rest ledge at about half-way, James pulled up near enough a second rack before continuing.
As James pulled over the crag edge to finish, he commented in his usual understated manner: "Good climbing. Obviously a bit loose."
Considering the route while belaying Nick Bullock up, James said: "It was a brilliant effort by Stevie. Him and Leigh may have pulled off a skip load of loose stuff cleaning it but it just leaves another skip load behind. When it's all chalked like that though I'd give it E7 6b. It helped massively, along with pulling up another rack."
James continued: "Physically it felt like 7a+ but because it is serious it feels harder - like lots of the corner lines on this buttress - if this route was solid it'd probably be E4 5c. The starting groove was technically the crux for me. I didn't really feel I had a stopper bit of gear in until I got the good cams in the break after the rest. It was E5 from there."