Charlie Houston, the physician who led the epic 1953 American expedition to K2, died on 27 September aged 96, at his home in Burlington, Vt.
Houston pioneered the field of high-altitude medicine after an expedition up the world's second-highest mountain claimed the life of a fellow mountaineer.
Houston's great legacy for mountaineers and trekkers emerged from his groundbreaking research in high altitude medicine. The publication in 1980 of Houston's Going Higher: Oxygen, Man, and Mountains at last provided climbers and medics with a clear understanding of the cause and effect of the main types of altitude sickness, together with sound advice on staying healthy.
Read the full obituary by Stephen Goodwin Obituary: Charles S. Houston