Steve McClure On the Telly and Malham Newsby Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com Oct/2009
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On the same day that Steve redpointed Cry Freedom he also managed an onsight flash of the Gaz Parry route, Idefix F8b which is a continuation of Free n Even Easier
Steve has some interesting things to say about time off from climbing, even if his down time wasn't voluntary,
"However the interesting thing for me was that I'd been flattened by flu all week, I'd not even left the house for a whole week, with barely enough energy to climb the stairs. Going to Malham was the first day I could imagine doing anything at all. Andy Cave also climbed GBH (F8a+) comfortably despite a long drawn out effort before. He's just been very involved in baby life with barely no climbing for 3 weeks. Climbers often think they are losing strength if they miss a session and get paranoid about having to climb 3 or 4 times per week for 30 years. Sometimes a rest is all that is needed, and most likely the occasional bit of down time won't hurt. But I wouldn't particularly recomend the flu that I had, even though it seemed to work. Unfortunalely it seems to have come back again!!"
Other significant ascents this week at Malham include Jordan Buy's ascent Power Ranger F8b+, which is Jordan's second 8b+ redpoint of the month. Also just in is Jenny Woodward's ascent of Predator F8b which caps a great year for Jenny who also completed Yorkshire's Triple F8a+ Crown of Supercool at Gordale Scar, Urgent Action at Kilnsey and The Groove at Malham Cove this year (UKC News Report).
Next Monday at 7.30pm Steve will be featured in the BBC 1 programme, Inside Out (BBC website details) climbing a new 8c+ link up at Malham Cove. The footage was filmed by Alastair Lee of Posing Productions
It's a link between Bat Route, Rainshadow and Overshadow, but with quite a lot of new climbing. I dreamt this up a while ago but was inspired to get involved after I got a call from the British Broadcasting Corporation (the TV)! However, their brief was that I climb a brand new 'hardest route in the world' at Malham Cove on a specific day of their choosing. Apparently I was capable of simply walking up to a cliff, spotting an unclimbed line, and then climbing it first time without any inspection to give the hardest sport route in the world! My first job was to explain their initial brief was fairly unlikely without totally putting them off. The next challenge was pretending to be a suitable 'personality', hiding my lack of TV looks and complete absence of on-camera ability until the last minute when they met me and it was all too late.
Neil Mawson is sponsored by Marmot and Zero-G Climbing.
Steve McClure has a blog at stevemcclure.petzlteam.com.