PHOTOS: Adam Ondra - His Hardest Yetby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Oct/2009
This news story has been read 10,640 times
16 year old Adam Ondra has climbed what he considers to be his hardest route yet, completing a project at sector Bronx in the Domusnovas area of Sardina, Italy.
The route, which he has graded F9a+/b, has taken Adam four days of effort this year and three tries last year. It is most likely one of the hardest routes in the world.
Vojtěch Vrzba, the Czech climbing photographer who has captured Adam on various hard routes and kindly supplied UKClimbing.com with many superb images, described the route and Adam's ascent:
"The 35m long, extremely overhanging route, called 'Marina Superstar' is an extension of the existing route 'Marina' (F8c/+) and was bolted by Matteo Marini. It is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas village about 40km from Cagliari in Sardinia.
Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a F8b+ pitch, 45 degrees overhanging, then continues past 4 quickdraws to another chain (F8c/c+ - 'Marina') and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of Font 7C+ in a near horizontal roof to the edge of the cave.
Several hard moves with heel-hooks and one good rest hold leads to another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - switching from a horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The distance between the last bolt and the chain is approximately 6m!
Adam sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, so he had to change his sequence and needed to use a wet tufa and match on it too! That probably made the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days before coming to his final verdict of F9a+/b.
During his brief stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of other hard routes in sectors Bronx 'Death Row' (F8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo 'The Voice' (F8c+). He also onsighted seven routes from F8a to F8b."
(Click the photos to enlarge)
Tonight's Friday Night Video is another great piece of work from UKC user David Linnett of Bald Eagle Productions. Climber... Read more
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
Recently I went down to Barcelona to check out Chris Sharma's new gym and make a podcast with the living legend. We talk about... Read more
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of a problem he has been working on for a while in the Cova de Ocell near Barcelona.... Read more