The coolest ice I've ever seen or climbed, anywhere in the world.by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com Feb/2010
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"Not one single drytool move in the whole pitch; pull up, lock off, work for a placement. Just like normal ice but on a 45-degree wall. So much fun!"Can you say steep? Spray On, 30M, WI10, Helmcken Falls, BC. FA Will Gadd, Tim Emmet, January 29, 2010.
"I'm just back home after climbing the coolest ice I've ever seen or climbed, anywhere in the world" writes Will Gadd on his blog gravsports.blogspot.com
Using the internet Will Gadd has been peering into his computer screen looking for an ice version of Klondike for the last decade, and he found it at Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.
Helmcken Falls is a "is a stunning, complete bad-ass of a waterfall." A river falls 141M (about 500 feet) over a 45-degree wall of compact volcanic rock and the spray from the waterfalls covers the wall in icy blobs, none good enough for a decent ice screw. The ascent, placing bolts on the lead, took a couple of days and was not without incident, uhhh! meaning falls.
You can read the full epic tale, with photos and musings on the grade at gravsports.blogspot.com
Tim told UKClimbing.com just before he went to bed that we may have more photos and video later.
Location of Helmcken Falls in Wells Gray Provincial Park, BC, Canada.