Dirty Dry-Tooler Named and Shamed

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2010
This news story has been read 9,152 times

+Pete 'dirty dry-tooler' Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7, 177 kb
Pete 'dirty dry-tooler' Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Guy Robertson

+Pete 'classic scratcher' Macpherson waves for the camera..., 93 kb
Pete 'classic scratcher' Macpherson waves for the camera...
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Guy Robertson
There has been much debate on the UKC forums of late concerning the climbing of winter routes when they are not white. Yes. It's true and you had better believe it.

“...expose this classic-scratching monster...”

Dave MacLeod has been under the spotlight for his ascent of Anubis. Pete Macpherson and Guy Robertson have also had a good grilling for Super Rat - quite right too. And it is this team that are in for it big style this time.

An anonymous source has written to UKC expressing outrage:

Dear UKC,

I feel compelled to inform you of a recent misdemeanour on Lochnagar.  I took these photographs of Pete Macpherson, leading Scottish winter activist, during his supposed second winter ascent of Redemption (VIII,7). 

As you'll see from the picture, this really is taking dry tooling one step too far!  First the acres of dry, black rock on Super Rat, and now this!

I tried shouting at him from the plateaux to stop and come down otherwise I'd post the pictures on the internet, but as you'll see from his gesturing he wasn't having any of it (note - see friendly hand signal in photo on right...).

He genuinely seems to think this is real Scottish winter conditions!  I feel really strongly that wannabes like Macpherson are leading the masses into a terrible abyss of laissez faire disregard for our precious rock resource, and an ever-deepening quagmire of ethical dirt and grime. 

For that reason I'd like you to put these pictures on UKC to expose this classic-scratching monster for what he really is.

Yours,

Concerned of Aberdeen

UKC Reply:

Dear Concerned,

That Macpherson bloke is really out of order this time. We at UKC are going to post his picture all over the internet and then he'll be in big trouble. Don't you worry.

Pete Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7, 185 kb
Pete Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7
UKC News, Mar 2010
© Guy Robertson

 


* Forums ( Read More... | 43 comments, 11 Apr 2010 )
I don't get what all the fuss is about in this country. Go to the continent and its quite common to see crampon scratches all over summer lines. I don't understand what the issue is other than perhaps some subjective...
ruaidh - 23 Mar 2010

It is a bit of a belaboured joke. Nice photo's and good route though so that's ok with me. Just a quick point. It may be considered "funny" to be concerned about our effect on the rock during winter ascents...
Wrongfoot - 22 Mar 2010

I don't know why you're still bothering with this winter nonsense. Summer is here. I've seen rock climbing pictures from the Ben this week. Minus One Direct....looks a super route with none of that inconvenient snowy...
hexcentric - 20 Mar 2010

Chill oot boyo =) It's Sat am before 8am...what you're doing to your heart and arteries is surely not good. Are you the bloke with a throbbing vein on the forehead I saw preach on TV the othernight (can't remember if...
French Erick - 20 Mar 2010

This thread was started in the UKC NEWS forum and should be moved, maybe to the SNIDE REMARKS forum. Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators. I understood...
Fredt - 20 Mar 2010

Basically people have been complaining a lot recently about 'winter' ascents of summer mountain routes that don't have enough ice, snow and hoar frost on them to protect the rock from crampon and tool scratches....
stewieatb - 19 Mar 2010

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