8 Year Old Kids Cranking F8a and Font 8Aby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2010
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Tito has his own website here: titotraversa.it
Meanwhile, over in the USA, 8 year old climber Ashima Shiraishi has been causing quite a stir by climbing some hard boulder problems including the classic V10/Font 7C+ Power of Silence at Hueco Tanks.
Ashima, from New York, started climbing on the Central Park Boulders and has climbed a possible V10 first ascent and a possible V11 first ascent as well as repeating Power of Silence and winning the recent Youth Bouldering Championship.
Her ascent of Power of Silence (captured on video and shown here on Deadpoint Magazine) caused some discussion on various US websites as some climbers thought her ascent either didn't count, or wasn't V10, as she used a completely different sequence to the normal method of climbing the problem. No shit, she's probably half their size. Of course it counts.
Top climbers are getting younger, the test-pieces from previous generations are becoming warm-ups for today's super-kids. Adam Ondra is possibly the World's greatest sport climber and is just 17 years old.
Where this trend will take climbing no-one knows, but I wouldn't be surprised to see 14 year old climbers winning World Cup competitions in a few years time. They have low weight, no fear and, most importantly, aren't allowed to drink beer!
However I can't quite put my finger on why, but when I see kids this young climbing routes this hard I feel slightly uneasy. Is it my ego taking a beating or am I worried about something deeper?
© Ashima Shiraishi Collection
Ashima is sponsored by Evolv
Tito is sponsored by C.A.M.P and E9