8 Year Old Kids Cranking F8a and Font 8Aby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2010
This news story has been read 11,657 times
His recent tick list includes:
Tito has his own website here: titotraversa.it
Meanwhile, over in the USA, 8 year old climber Ashima Shiraishi has been causing quite a stir by climbing some hard boulder problems including the classic V10/Font 7C+ Power of Silence at Hueco Tanks.
Ashima, from New York, started climbing on the Central Park Boulders and has climbed a possible V10 first ascent and a possible V11 first ascent as well as repeating Power of Silence and winning the recent Youth Bouldering Championship.
Her ascent of Power of Silence (captured on video and shown here on Deadpoint Magazine) caused some discussion on various US websites as some climbers thought her ascent either didn't count, or wasn't V10, as she used a completely different sequence to the normal method of climbing the problem. No shit, she's probably half their size. Of course it counts.
Top climbers are getting younger, the test-pieces from previous generations are becoming warm-ups for today's super-kids. Adam Ondra is possibly the World's greatest sport climber and is just 17 years old.
Where this trend will take climbing no-one knows, but I wouldn't be surprised to see 14 year old climbers winning World Cup competitions in a few years time. They have low weight, no fear and, most importantly, aren't allowed to drink beer!
However I can't quite put my finger on why, but when I see kids this young climbing routes this hard I feel slightly uneasy. Is it my ego taking a beating or am I worried about something deeper?
© Ashima Shiraishi Collection
Ashima is sponsored by Evolv
Tito is sponsored by C.A.M.P and E9
As reported earlier this week, Ned Feehally made the coveted second repeat of Voyager Sit Start 8B+ at Burbage North (UKC... Read more
After only a few days in Fontainebleau and in mostly less than ideal conditions, Jimmy Webb has already managed to repeat... Read more
So, some might say this is a piece of non-news, but I find it very interesting that Ashima Shiraishi, 14, came very close to... Read more
Ashima Shiraishi has made the second ascent of Dai Koyamada's Phenomena, ~8B+, at Hinokage, Miyazaki, Japan. Santa... Read more