VIDEO: Franco Cookson Headpoints New Possible E8by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2010
This news story has been read 14,178 times
Franco has graded the route H7 6c as he is a firm believer in the onsight ethic yet resorted to practising the moves on this route on a shunt before his successful headpoint ascent. H stands for headpoint and is a splinter grade from the traditional E grade and has been used occasionally by climbers who wish to differentiate their ascent from that of a true onsight.
Top climber John Arran made a similar statement with one of his hard gritstone routes Doctor Dolittle at Curbar, grading it H9.
Commenting on the grade of his new H7 6c The Hypocrisy of Moose, Franco Cookson said:
"I normally onsight things, so have never done anything anywhere near as hard, but hopefully someone can come and repeat it and offer some more informed opinions on the grade. I reckon it would be about E8 for the onsight, due to how sequency it is and how the RPs popped out of the flexing flake when I tried to jump off on a previous onsight attempt."
Franco estimates the upper crux of the route to be a very balancy V6 boulder problem.
Franco, always enthusiastic about his home area, feels there is much more to come in the North York Moors:
"I'm very excited about the potential in the Moors for new routes and I think it is the first of many routes which people are going to be putting up this year. Only a few months ago we did a new two star E2 at Stoupe Brow - with a 3 minute walk in - where else could you do that in England?!"
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
UKC Assistant Editor Natalie Berry has hit the mainstream press today following the release of the Hot Aches Productions film... Read more
Neil Gresham recently added Premonition 8b+ (UKC News Report) to - a full-height extension to Ron Fawcett's Extreme... Read more
We recently reported that a new E10 7a - or H10 as used by Franco to indicate a headpoint ascent - named had been... Read more
According to the UKC logbooks, a new E10 named has been established by Franco Cookson at , North Yorkshire. The line was... Read more