Adam Ondra at Malhamby Keith Sharples Apr/2010
This news story has been read 18,295 times
Ondra, one of the best climbers on Planet Rock at the moment, is here for a week and clearly means business. Between tie-ins he was scanning the guidebook and scoping the crag. He looked to me like a big game cat stalking his prey before pouncing and going in for the kill...
He wasted no time adding to his score-card (check it out here www.8a.nu) with on-sights of Zoolook (F8a) and Overnite Sensation (F8a+). Next up was Overshadow (F9a+), Steve McClure's 2007 mega route. His second go up was only a tad short of amazing; he was clearly in red-point mode! Having belayed Steve prior to and then on his actual ascent of Overshadow, as well as having photographed him on it afterwards, I felt like an expectant father. Did Ondra dispatch it on his first go? No, is the short answer – but boy did he look wicked. Falling from the crucial bulge, that just above Overnite lower-off, he worked it some more then tore up the rest of the pitch to the lower-off. Hmmm – impressive stuff; at least I didn't need to ring Steve and tell him Ondra had hiked his route on his first red-point!
An hour later, his rope hit the catwalk below Cry Freedom (F8b+). Given he had on-sighted F8c+, surely a lowly F8b+ should be a walk in the park? Having seen plenty of folks on this before I knew where the hard bits were. However, watching Ondra dispatch the first crucial section in three big moves I was left thinking that the on-sight was gonna be perfunctory...
UKC User Photos:
UKClimbing.com have a Ondra special in the pipeline - watch this space.
The third round of the 2016 IFSC Lead World Cup circuit saw competitors congregate in Briançon, France at... Read more
Nalle Hukkataival has also repeated Fred Nicole's Monkey wedding, ~8C, in Rocklands, South Africa. This was the 8th ascent of the... Read more
In April this year, Piotrek Schab, 19, repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo at Oliana in Catalunya for his first of the... Read more
After having done his final university exams, Adam Ondra took good time in Flatanger cave last week with the first ascent of... Read more
Jakob Schubert and Domen Škofic have repeated one 9a+ each at Flatanger, Norway. Jakob did Kangaroo's Limb while... Read more