Leah sticking the dyno on her latest 8a
© Simon Wadsworth, May 2010 British climber Leah Crane has been on a European road-trip for 4 months and has so far bouldered numerous Font 7C's and her own new Font 8A (see UKC News).
Recently she has been spending some time sport climbing in the Costa Blanca area of Spain and has ticked three F8a routes.
A week stay at Sella saw her complete Watermark F8a and the next day she also ticked Celia F8a on her second redpoint. Both these routes are at the Wildside Sector.
This is her fourth F8a at Wildside having already done two the year before on a week long trip in march.
Leah commented on the routes:
“I looked at watermark and thought it looked good from the floor. As I had already done two 8a's here a year ago, Watermark was the next step. I pulled on and soon found out that it was not my style at all, sustained vertical and crimpy. However, second day - first try, I dispatched it, missing a clip out as it pumped me too much to clip it!
Celia was much more my style. A bouldery start to a good rest then pumpy tufa climbing with a big pop in the middle and a fairly hard shoulder move near the top. I did think this route was slightly easier than the other 8a's I have done here.”
Leah's latest F8a was at the very overhanging crag of Murla.
“I really didn't expect to get it that day. The route suits me down to the ground with hard first moves and a dyno in the middle. This route is awesome, I love it. And hopefully my project next door (8a+) will go soon too. Wish me luck!”