Today, I suspect Jan Hojer realized a dream. The 18-year-old from Cologne managed to grab an ascent (I admit it, I've lost count... could it be the 13th?) of Wolfgang Güllich's Waldkopf shallow pocket test-piece Action directe, 9a, in the Frankenjura.
I asked Jan to tell TheLowDown about his ascent and the process leading up to it:
"The first time I tried the route was in 2009 (autumn) because I was motivated in trying some harder stuff.... in my first session I managed to do all the moves and I was so psyched that I spent another day and the following two weekends in AD.
After my third session I could climb it with just one rest. Because I believed in being able to send it soon I came back last week and worked on it for another three days but the conditions were not good enough. Today I arrieved after 6 hours of driving and just made one try without any expectations and fell at the last move... after a worse second try I sent it... For me a dream became true! I always wanted to climb AD since I've seen this beautiful line in 2005 when I did Slimline..."
Thanks a lot Jan and good luck with your next project!